Replacing deck fill port - that thing is really on there - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-07-2010 Thread Starter
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Replacing deck fill port - that thing is really on there

I have a deck fill port that I can't open. In fact, I tried using a ladder whil on the hard, using an extension tube over the "key" for more torque. And the very helpful pump-out guy in Martha's Vinyard tried his best and managed to get the *other* stuck port open, but couldn't get this one open either. (He did this on his own, without my asking. That's how they are on MVI.)

Is there a secret way to get that thing open? (I already tried PB Blaster, no luck.)

Barring that, it's really on there. I'm guessing they used 4200 or maybe 5200. Has anyone replaced on of these? I'm thinking about drilling through the top cap and then using a sawzall to gut outward toward the cap's threads, getting close to the threads and then using a chisel to get the pieces out. (The hose to the water tank is already detached on the underside, so nothing would get into the water tank.) Maybe I can salvage the fitting that way and just replace the cap itself.

Regards,
Brad

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post #2 of 8 Old 04-07-2010
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get a can of super duster for a computer, turn it up side down and spray the heck out of the center of the cap, freeze that sucker solid. then try to unscrew it. if it does not work then try heating it slightly with a torch, ie cycle the it from one end to the other a few times. then try is again when it frozen, if it wont let go then freeze it some more and take a ball peen hammer to the center of the cap. this should pop the center of the cap then try a chisel to break it up some more till you get the pieces out.
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by scottyt View Post
get a can of super duster for a computer, turn it up side down and spray the heck out of the center of the cap, freeze that sucker solid. then try to unscrew it. if it does not work then try heating it slightly with a torch, ie cycle the it from one end to the other a few times. then try is again when it frozen, if it wont let go then freeze it some more and take a ball peen hammer to the center of the cap. this should pop the center of the cap then try a chisel to break it up some more till you get the pieces out.
Thanks Scotty, that would sure beat the brute force method.

Maybe I can get ahold of some liquid nitrogen. (I used to work with liquid nitrogen years ago.) Heating the port from underneath with a blow torch while aplying liquid nitrogen to the center of the fill cap would be about as extreme a use of metal expansion/contraction as I could get. And the center of the cap is a socket for a winch handle-type wrench/opener - perfect for containing some liquid nitrogen.

It's a 2-person job. 3-person if we make a video or get good pictures to post.

Regards,
Brad

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post #4 of 8 Old 04-08-2010
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If the fitting is such a problem, why not just replace it. It only takes a short time to do so, and the amount of time saved is probably worth the cost of the new deck fill.

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post #5 of 8 Old 04-08-2010
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sd is right about replacing the whole thing, unless it is so glued in it would damage the deck trying to get it out. and now we said damage i would not use nitrogen that might be too cold for the deck and make it too brittle.

i would give it the freeze heat cycle for a little if that does not do it replace it
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-12-2010
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I second replacement. I just replaced two water deck fills on my 1979 cruiser. The port side one was so corroded that it broke into 3 pieces as I was trying to remove it (at first with just my hands and then with a chisel to get the rest out). All in all, it could have been a day's work except that I decided to chamfer, route and fill the core with epoxy before rebedding the new fills. But even with epoxy drying, it was basically a 2 day job.. Done.. And now the fills are shiny, new and will probably outlast the rest of the boat. :-) Plus these new models don't require a key (something that invariably gets lost or dropped in the water).

BTW, it was my first "real" repair job. And thanks to this forum, I was smart enough to follow good procedures and use butyl tape instead of one of those hideous cement products (Which I think the PO used to install the waste pump out).. eek

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post #7 of 8 Old 04-12-2010
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Bene, I ran into the same problem with my Waste deck-plate. It hadn't been touched in years and was basically welded with corrosion. I ended up pulling the whole assembly off the deck, taking it home, soaking it in WD40, then mounting it to a piece of plywood, drilling out the plate wrench holes, through-bolting a pipe to the cap, blasting it with a blowtorch...and it came off...eventually.

I then filled the holes with sealant and put it all back on the boat.

Now, I did all this because I refuse to spend any real money on this boat. It's just for play and for learning how to deal with crappy systems.

If it were a real boat, I'd replace the damn thing.


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post #8 of 8 Old 04-12-2010
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Quote:
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If it were a real boat, I'd replace the damn thing.
Don't let your lady hear that!
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