Fix Tabbing - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 04-08-2010
davidpm's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Madison
Posts: 3,808
Thanks: 204
Thanked 50 Times in 42 Posts
Rep Power: 8
davidpm is on a distinguished road
Fix Tabbing

If you have some bulkhead repair and the tabbing has to be replaced what is the ideal setup.
I'm thinking?
  1. Grind everything rough with 80 grit.
  2. Fit bulkhead clear of hull by thickness of plywood. IE 1/2" plywood 1/2" clearance.
  3. Fold in 4" 6 oz tape on both sides
  4. Cover with three more layers 6", 8", 10"

Is that enough?
I'm working on a small boat 25' but even for a bigger boat I suspect I would just add a couple more layers.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 04-08-2010
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: chesapeake bay
Posts: 1,942
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
scottyt is on a distinguished road
i would use a few more layers and when done putting it all on put some plastic ( saran wrap, trash bag etc ) over it and use a plastic squeege to remove as much resin as possible. then when cured remove the plastic, this will make it as solid as possible, as the strength is the glass not the resin. maybe even dont do the clearancing where the tabbing is going. a high resin % is weaker, and the clearancing will make it hard to not have too much resin in the gap. but feel free to have clearance where there is no tabbing
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 04-08-2010
AdamLein's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Coquitlam, BC
Posts: 1,862
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
AdamLein will become famous soon enough
Are you planning to just leave an empty gap between the bulkhead and the hull? I think I've heard about installing foam with a trapezoidal cross-section shaped so the tabbing goes over it at the angle you want.
__________________
s/v Essorant
1972 Catalina 27
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 04-08-2010
mitiempo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,220
Thanks: 0
Thanked 73 Times in 64 Posts
Rep Power: 8
mitiempo will become famous soon enough mitiempo will become famous soon enough
The foam is just there as a spacer so the load is taken evenly by the tabbing and no hard spots are created. I believe Morris uses a spacer and removes it after glassing one side but before glassing the other side.
As for the cloth, I'd use biaxial. Here's a link to bulkhead attachment by a pro:
Northern Yacht Restoration | Bolero, Shields Class #9
scroll down the page halfway.
__________________
Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 04-08-2010
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,291
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
You really want to have some clearance so as not to create a hard spot along the hull where the bulkhead is touching it. That will lead to the hull laminate flexing and hinging at a specific spot repeatedly and cause it to fatigue and fail there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyt View Post
i would use a few more layers and when done putting it all on put some plastic ( saran wrap, trash bag etc ) over it and use a plastic squeege to remove as much resin as possible. then when cured remove the plastic, this will make it as solid as possible, as the strength is the glass not the resin. maybe even dont do the clearancing where the tabbing is going. a high resin % is weaker, and the clearancing will make it hard to not have too much resin in the gap. but feel free to have clearance where there is no tabbing
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Quick Fix for tiny leaks? QuickMick Gear & Maintenance 7 10-26-2009 06:42 AM
Fiberglass tabbing LDH Gear & Maintenance 2 12-11-2005 06:11 PM
Lines of Position, Bearings, and Fixes Jim Sexton Seamanship Articles 0 03-23-2004 08:00 PM
Lines of Position, Bearings, and Fixes Jim Sexton Her Sailnet Articles 0 03-23-2004 08:00 PM
Navigating with Radar Jim Sexton Seamanship Articles 0 03-29-2002 08:00 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:34 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.