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post #1 of 5 Old 04-07-2010 Thread Starter
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Fix Tabbing

If you have some bulkhead repair and the tabbing has to be replaced what is the ideal setup.
I'm thinking?
  1. Grind everything rough with 80 grit.
  2. Fit bulkhead clear of hull by thickness of plywood. IE 1/2" plywood 1/2" clearance.
  3. Fold in 4" 6 oz tape on both sides
  4. Cover with three more layers 6", 8", 10"

Is that enough?
I'm working on a small boat 25' but even for a bigger boat I suspect I would just add a couple more layers.
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post #2 of 5 Old 04-07-2010
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i would use a few more layers and when done putting it all on put some plastic ( saran wrap, trash bag etc ) over it and use a plastic squeege to remove as much resin as possible. then when cured remove the plastic, this will make it as solid as possible, as the strength is the glass not the resin. maybe even dont do the clearancing where the tabbing is going. a high resin % is weaker, and the clearancing will make it hard to not have too much resin in the gap. but feel free to have clearance where there is no tabbing
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post #3 of 5 Old 04-08-2010
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Are you planning to just leave an empty gap between the bulkhead and the hull? I think I've heard about installing foam with a trapezoidal cross-section shaped so the tabbing goes over it at the angle you want.

s/v Laelia - 1978 Pearson 365 ketch
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post #4 of 5 Old 04-08-2010
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The foam is just there as a spacer so the load is taken evenly by the tabbing and no hard spots are created. I believe Morris uses a spacer and removes it after glassing one side but before glassing the other side.
As for the cloth, I'd use biaxial. Here's a link to bulkhead attachment by a pro:
Northern Yacht Restoration | Bolero, Shields Class #9
scroll down the page halfway.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #5 of 5 Old 04-08-2010
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You really want to have some clearance so as not to create a hard spot along the hull where the bulkhead is touching it. That will lead to the hull laminate flexing and hinging at a specific spot repeatedly and cause it to fatigue and fail there.
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Originally Posted by scottyt View Post
i would use a few more layers and when done putting it all on put some plastic ( saran wrap, trash bag etc ) over it and use a plastic squeege to remove as much resin as possible. then when cured remove the plastic, this will make it as solid as possible, as the strength is the glass not the resin. maybe even dont do the clearancing where the tabbing is going. a high resin % is weaker, and the clearancing will make it hard to not have too much resin in the gap. but feel free to have clearance where there is no tabbing

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