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post #1 of 13 Old 04-09-2010 Thread Starter
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Question Bottom Prep?

The bottom on my boat is in pretty good condition according to the divers I've had under it, but it's getting due and will REQUIRE maintenance soon. When I go back to work, I won't be back for at least 6mos.

I've decided on Interlux Micron 66, but wonder what the prep work will involve and I'd like to see what others have done.

high pressure water, sanding....primer?

Thanks!


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Last edited by 71Irwin32; 04-09-2010 at 08:39 PM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-09-2010
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What bottom paint do you have on the boat currently??? If whatever paint you pick is not compatible, you'll have a lot more work to do.

Also, I would recommend a Petitt ablative, rather than an Interlux one, since the Interlux ones generally require higher boat speeds to ablate properly. The Petitt ones, like Hydrocoat tend to ablate at speeds as low as 3 knots or so....where the Interlux ones, like Micron 66, often need 6+ knots to begin ablating.

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post #3 of 13 Old 04-09-2010 Thread Starter
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Wish I knew what paint's on it...lasted a long time.l

What's "ablate" ?


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post #4 of 13 Old 04-09-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Irwin32 View Post
Wish I knew what paint's on it...lasted a long time.l

What's "ablate" ?
Ablative paint flakes off in thin layers, to expose more of the active ingredient (like copper). The idea is that as the active ingredients loose their potency, the paint flakes off to expose a new layer of fresh ingredients.

None of it works just sitting around, and as SD said, different paints require different minimum speeds to properly flake off.

In addition, some paints are not compatible with fresh water, others with salt water.

But the most important thing is to know what you are over coating. If you don;t you could have anything from a mess to the pain failing completely. Interlux has a chart on their web site that tells you what preperation is needed based upon what paint is going on top of what other paint.

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post #5 of 13 Old 04-09-2010
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Technically, ablative paints "ablate" or erode under the water rushing by it when the boat is in motion. They do not flake.

If the existing paint is a hard epoxy paint, then many ablative paints may be compatible with it.

How long have you owned the boat??? If the old owner was responsible for the paint that is on it now, then you should call him/her about it, if you can.

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Last edited by sailingdog; 04-09-2010 at 09:18 PM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 04-09-2010
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Quote:
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Technically, ablative paints "ablate" or erode under the water rushing by it when the boat is in motion. They do not flake.
Very true, I was just trying to avoid explaining the word "ablate" by using the word "ablate."

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LOL...yes, circular definitions are not very useful...but flake isn't really accurate...erode is...

Quote:
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Very true, I was just trying to avoid explaining the word "ablate" by using the word "ablate."

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—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #8 of 13 Old 04-09-2010
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Like a bar of soap in the shower.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
LOL...yes, circular definitions are not very useful...but flake isn't really accurate...erode is...
I concede, erode is better than flake!

As for soap in the shower, do you mean before or after it is dropped?

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post #10 of 13 Old 04-09-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
How long have you owned the boat??? If the old owner was responsible for the paint that is on it now, then you should call him/her about it, if you can.
I owned the boat 5-6 mos. The preivous owner did no maintenance, except to have the bottom painted in 2005....by the same yard I'm taking it to. It's a DIY yard, but they also contract work.

I've had two different divers under it, and they both comment on how good the bottom is. The prop and shaft are terrible though.


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