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  #1  
Old 04-13-2010
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Yet another window issue... but different.

I am replacing the windows on my CC 29 MKI. I have purchaced 2 opening ports and will install them in the aft openings, and I have refurbed 2 of the originals with new acrylic and seals. My first question is the same one asked ad nauseum in other threads: which sealant to use? My other question is what to do about the edges of the openings. The construction is: Fiberglass outer wall (cabintop), wood core, and fiberglass interior. In many places these three pieces are no longer bonded together. That is, there is a gap between the fiberglass and the wood on one side or the other, or both. Should I bond the three pieces together before installing the windows, and what would I use in that case? Or can I spread the sealant into the gap when I install the windows and then just procede with the installation?
Thanks for your advice,
Bruce
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Old 04-13-2010
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I would seal the wood with epoxy and fill the gap with epoxy and clamp the sides together until the epoxy sets. The cabintop will be much stronger if the three pieces are bonded together.

Then I would use butyl tape to seal the ports if the port frames are through-bolted to the cabintop.
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Old 04-13-2010
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Sailingdog,
Thanks for the info. One follow up: Do I have to use anything special to prep for the Butyl tape? a primer? a cleaner? Acetone?
Bruce
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Old 04-13-2010
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Clean the surface well...acetone or denatured alcohol will work fairly well.
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Originally Posted by bruceyp View Post
Sailingdog,
Thanks for the info. One follow up: Do I have to use anything special to prep for the Butyl tape? a primer? a cleaner? Acetone?
Bruce
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—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Old 04-25-2010
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Thanks for the help

Sailingdog and Maine Sail,
Thanks for the help in replacing my ports. Between the two of you, I was able to "Get'er Done".
Although I used a different brand of opening port, and didn't have a template supplied by the MFG'er, Maine Sail's tutorial was similar enough to be very helpful. And SD's advice was on the mark regarding epoxy-ing the inner and outer surfaces together. (While I was at it I replaced the wood in the middle as the old had been drilled and re-drilled several times and looked rather like Swiss cheese.)
In case anyone wants to hear the details, here are a few :
Removed the old ports (4 ea).
Cleaned the old silicone sealant.
Refurbed 2 original windows with new acrylic and new seals.
Removed old wood from between the inner and outer walls, and re-epoxied new wood in place.
Made my own template to fit the 2 new opening ports.
Located the template and then routed the 2 new openings.
Dry fit the windows.
Cleaned the outer surfaces again.
Installed the butyl tape on the mounting flange.
These windows had an exterior flange, and an interior trim ring. The exterior flange has no holes. The holes in the trim ring lined up with holes in the window frame. The screws clamped the cabintop between the frame and the trim ring.
I installed screws in all the holes before tightening them to "a little snug". I then did the other port the same way. Then I went back and forth tightening the screws a little at a time while also reinstalling the 2 original windows. This was to give the butyl time to squeeze itself out evenly, (as per Maine Sail's suggestion.)
Trimmed off the excess buytl tape.
Done deal.
Now the cover is off and the rest of the season's work can start. Oh yeah, and it is raining this morning so I can go see how well I did.
Thanks again for the help, SD &MS
B
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Old 04-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceyp View Post
Sailingdog and Maine Sail,
Thanks for the help in replacing my ports. Between the two of you, I was able to "Get'er Done".
[snip]
Made my own template to fit the 2 new opening ports.
Located the template and then routed the 2 new openings.
[snip]
I'm curious about making your own template and the use of the router. What did you use to make the template? And why use a router over a jigsaw? I'd have thought one would have better control with a jig -- unless whatever you made your template from also acted as a guide for the router.

I'm looking at replacing some ports maybe next year, so any advance info I can gather is a plus.

Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2010
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this may help you understand how a router can help copy or reproduce things

How to Use a Pattern Router Bit | eHow.com

Hope this helps!
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Old 04-25-2010
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Bruce—

Thanks for the update and glad to help.
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Old 04-25-2010
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Oddly enough Mark Plastics, the makers of original and replacement ports for Islander and other boats, is adamant about only using SILICONE to bed their ports. Gobs of it, and there are wide sealing surfaces involved.

I disagree with them, equally adamantly, but there's at least one maker of these things that swears there is only one proper sealant for them.

FWIW.
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Old 04-26-2010
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jaschrumpf,
I had a friend make my template from 1/8" aluminum in a CNC punch, but it would have been better making it from 3/4" plywood. DeniseO30 has a very good link in her remark above. The template did act as a guide. As far as my choice to use a router, that was suggested by Maine Sail in his tutorial: (Installing New Found Metals Stainless Portlights Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com)
I was a bit skeptical, so I tried a jig saw the first inch or so. The jig saw left a very ragged edge so I switched to the router. No comparison. I pretty much burnt up the router bit by the time I was done but $14 for a smooth finish was worth it. A note here. Have a way to confine some of the cuttings. I custom made a cardboard box to cover the opening around the window, and duct taped it in place inside. When the routing was done I vacuumed the box out before removing it. And it was still pretty messy.
I tried to attach a photo, but I'm at work....
Bruce
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