Best teak treatment.... - Page 4

stoomy · #31 12-13-2012

Hi All,
I know this is an old thread, but I'd like to get some thoughts on this.
I recently purchased an OC40 which had spent an entire summer under it's Fairclough cover. The teak toe rails were a mottled gray/green/black color with half a dozen Nickel-sized spots of rot around 0.25 inches deep on the inside of the rails.
I got it end-of-season, brought it home and almost immediately hauled for the winter. Before I put the cover back on, I added a little boat soap and some oxy clean power to a bucket of water and took a scrub brush to the toe rails.
WOW! what a difference and only a couple hours of scrubbing made. There are still a few black streaks, but mostly the teak is golden-brown and fabulous.
My current plan for March is:
1) repair the rotten holes with some epoxy and epoxy-based putty.
2) Repeat the oxy clean scrubbing
3) Coat the toe rails with teakguard (allguardproducts dot com)

I don't want to varnish.
I was just wondering if anyone has direct experience with teakguard.

All comments and opinions welcome.
thanks!

deltaten · #32 12-13-2012

Here's a 'monkey wrench' ta thow in the mix !
What about the exterior wood preservers, like Thompson's deck sealer? Too slick? Howzabout "wood life" for sealing teak? I know it works well on cedar siding and the like without changing color or surface.. just adds UV and rot proofing, to a degree.
I like the idea of a tung oil product; not a mile of varnish. Could 'Cetol' do it without the ever-recommended varnish atop?

Philzy3985 · #33 03-08-2013

Without started yet another thread about it, I am re-surfacing this one because it's all relevant to my question.

I'm getting pretty tired of this teak stuff. 3 months ago I set out with West Marine teak cleaner & brighter and West Marine Gold Premium Teak Oil. I followed all the directions perfectly, and by the end of the weekend people on the dock were coming by to compliment how good the hand-rails looked (in addition to the hatch boards, cockpit pockets, and teak around the sliding hatch board)

Anyway. After 1 week the port side started to grey. I re-applied another layer all around, thinking the oil just didn't absorb well enough. It looked good again. After 2 weeks it started to grey again. This time I set aside a whole day to liberally apply the oil again. All around, again. It looked okay from far for about a month, but up close you could see it just wasn't absorbing or staying in the grain of the teak.

It's been 2 months and it has rained off an on previously but nothing really happened to the teak. Last night it rained like normal southern california- nothing heavy. And it essentially looks as though I never EVER treated my teak. It pisses me off.

Additionally, even though I wiped off excess oil after 10-15 minutes of application (As the directions say) it seems that the oil seeps out when the hatch boards get wet. Then I have rain-saturated teak oil on my fiberglass. Increasing the level of pissed offness.

Any advice? I don't want to keep laboring away once every couple weeks with layers of teak oil to sustain "the look". I don't want to varnish because I don't want to varnish.

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stoomy · #34 03-08-2013

I've read a lot about this, but have little practical experience.

My understanding is that the gray stuff, is actually a mold which is feeding on the teak oil.

I'm adding some before and after pictures of my drop boards.

This is what the y looked like when I bought the boat.

This is after I cleaned the brass with flitz and the wood with some "oxygenated cleaner"...an Oxyclean knock-off.

Then I used allguard's teak treat.

I have no idea how long "the look" will last.

I'll post some updates after I'm back in the water this spring.