Gear shift control cable - Page 2 - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 19 Old 04-16-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
ThirdCoastSailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kemah, Tx
Posts: 43
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
JiffyLube,

I was inclined to pull the cable through the binacle from below, not up through the binacle. Does it matter?

TCS
ThirdCoastSailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 19 Old 04-17-2010
Grasshopper
 
JiffyLube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oceanside, Ca.
Posts: 896
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThirdCoastSailor View Post
JiffyLube,

I was inclined to pull the cable through the binacle from below, not up through the binacle. Does it matter?

TCS
Probably not.
JiffyLube is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #13 of 19 Old 04-18-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
ThirdCoastSailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kemah, Tx
Posts: 43
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
It's not as easy as you think

Folks,

Changing this cable is not as easy as it sounds. You have to remove the wheel shaft from the pedestal to gain access to a clamp inside the pedestal that holds both the gear shift and throttle cable. The steel wheel shaft is pushed through a brass cylinder includes the teeth that engage the steering chain. Getting the steel shaft out of the brass cylinder is NOT easy. Any suggestions?

TCS
ThirdCoastSailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #14 of 19 Old 04-18-2010
Grasshopper
 
JiffyLube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oceanside, Ca.
Posts: 896
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThirdCoastSailor View Post
Folks,

Changing this cable is not as easy as it sounds. You have to remove the wheel shaft from the pedestal to gain access to a clamp inside the pedestal that holds both the gear shift and throttle cable. The steel wheel shaft is pushed through a brass cylinder includes the teeth that engage the steering chain. Getting the steel shaft out of the brass cylinder is NOT easy. Any suggestions?

TCS
Sounds like we have different setups. Once our compass is removed from the pedestal (and the plate that the compass attaches to), you can see where the cables are attached to the control levers in the pedestal. I just have to remove one screw at either control lever, and that will release the cable from the control lever. Once the other end of the cable is unattached at the engine, all I have to do is pull out the cable.
JiffyLube is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #15 of 19 Old 04-18-2010
Senior Member
 
poopdeckpappy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 6,074
Thanks: 34
Thanked 41 Times in 35 Posts
Rep Power: 10
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by JiffyLube View Post
Once our compass is removed from the pedestal (and the plate that the compass attaches to), you can see where the cables are attached to the control levers in the pedestal. I just have to remove one screw at either control lever, and that will release the cable from the control lever. Once the other end of the cable is unattached at the engine, all I have to do is pull out the cable.
Same here

1955 Blanchard 51 Custom ( I got a woody )

Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change and Rum to accept the things I can't
poopdeckpappy is online now  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #16 of 19 Old 04-18-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
ThirdCoastSailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kemah, Tx
Posts: 43
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
JiffyLube,

Yes, I can see where the cables connect to the control levers but even after then are disconnected the inner cable rods will slide but the housings are held fast with the a clamp that bolts to the aft wall of the pedestal. The clamp is unfastened by removing a nut that is accessed from inside the engine guage panel, which in my case is attached to the lower part of the pedestal. I've got it all apart but getting this stainless wheel shaft out is where I'm stuck. I think I'll call Edson tomorrow and see if they have any suggestions.

TCS
ThirdCoastSailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #17 of 19 Old 04-19-2010
Senior Member
 
imagine2frolic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,830
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 7
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by klem View Post
I would recommend trying to shift the tranny by hand on it with the cable disconnected. Next, try moving the cable on its own with nothing connected. Then try shifting it with the cable connected to the tranny but disconnected from your shifter. Then hook up the shifter and see how it goes. The force is not going to be the same for each of them since there is mechanical advantage but it will give you an idea of how easily the cable moves.

I have seen several things cause this problem. If the rigid ends of the cable get bent at all, it will be hard to shift. If the cable itself is corroded, it will be hard. Another common thing that I have seen is a worn out shifter (I have not had good luck with the morse units). There are a lot of things that can cause the problem so I would suggest troubleshooting first. Cables are cheap and not a big deal to replace but while you are at it, you might as well fix the problem.

If changing cables, you might consider something other than the Teleflex/Morse units. I have heard really good reports with the cables from Kobelt. I have no personal experience with their cables but have had very good experiences with their shifter and I would expect that there cables are well built as well.

To answer your original question, just pull the old cable and take it into the store with you. If it has a hard to reach run, you might want to pull a line through when you remove the old one to allow you to pull the new cable through.
Just out of curiousity did you try all of this first? If so then Edson is your next call.........i2f

20 MPH ain't fast unless, you do it in a 1000sq 3/2 house on 10foot waves
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


BORROWED, No single one of us is as smart as all of us!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
imagine2frolic is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #18 of 19 Old 04-26-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
ThirdCoastSailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kemah, Tx
Posts: 43
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
The cables are out! Wohoo! The trick (recommended by Edson) was to push both cables up on one side of the wheel shaft so that the clamp deep inside the pedestal could be brought to the top and the cables removed from the clamp. Also I now understand why the shift was so stiff. The cable had a 30 degree kink at the base of the pedestal. Hopefully the new coiled cables will take the tight turns much better than the solid rod cables I just took out. Can't wait for the new parts to come in. By the way the cables were much longer than I thought, 18ft for the gear shift and 21ft for the throttle.
ThirdCoastSailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #19 of 19 Old 04-26-2010
Grasshopper
 
JiffyLube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oceanside, Ca.
Posts: 896
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThirdCoastSailor View Post
The cables are out! Wohoo! The trick (recommended by Edson) was to push both cables up on one side of the wheel shaft so that the clamp deep inside the pedestal could be brought to the top and the cables removed from the clamp. Also I now understand why the shift was so stiff. The cable had a 30 degree kink at the base of the pedestal. Hopefully the new coiled cables will take the tight turns much better than the solid rod cables I just took out. Can't wait for the new parts to come in. By the way the cables were much longer than I thought, 18ft for the gear shift and 21ft for the throttle.
I'm glad it all worked out for you.
JiffyLube is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cable gear snatched in Cooper City - Miami Herald NewsReader News Feeds 0 12-31-2006 04:16 AM
Maintaining Safety Gear Tom Wood Seamanship Articles 0 12-21-2001 07:00 PM
Maintaining Safety Gear Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 12-21-2001 07:00 PM
Maintaining Safety Gear Tom Wood Cruising Articles 0 12-21-2001 07:00 PM
Maintaining Safety Gear Tom Wood Her Sailnet Articles 0 12-21-2001 07:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome