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  #1  
Old 04-19-2010
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Split Companionway Frame

The frame for the drop boards on my buddies companionway are split. Any suggestions on how to address this?



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Old 04-19-2010
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The first thing I would do is get all that snow off it!
I'd say you have a choice.
You could glue it with epoxy in place and clamp it and hope for the best. They make syringes for use with epoxy so it could be injected into the small crack. Clamping with a few 'C' clamps or other clamps until the epoxy sets is the key.
OR
You could carefully remove the split piece allowing the crack to move up the grain. If the piece comes off (and it might anyway) you would be able to clean it out and uniformly apply epoxy to both sides and clamp it back in place.
The wood looks like it could use some Teak Oil.
Good luck.
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Old 04-19-2010
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Thawing them out first would be a good start...

Seriously though, you may be able to bond or glue them. It hard to tell the extent of the damage from your pics.

Provided that there's good solid wood under that snow and ice, you could:

1. Clean and rinse them thoroughly with a good cleaner, and allow them to dry. If they are teak, also clean the surface with acetone to remove any natural oils in surface of the wood.

2 (Option A) -- Mix up some epoxy and wet out the surfaces on both pieces, allowing the epoxy to penetrate into the grain of the wood. Once the epoxy's started to cure (test with a cotton ball, if it grabs the cotton fibers you're just right) fill the gap with some epoxy thickened with colloidal silica/Cab-O-Sil or high density filler. Clamp the pieces together tightly. You should have a fair amount of resin squeezed out. Wipe off the excess resin with a rag soaked with either acetone or white vinegar.

2. (Option B) -- Use a good waterproof glue like Titebond III. Coat the surfaces and clamp tightly. Wipe off excess glue with a rag dampened with water.

3. After allowing the glue/epoxy to cure, sand the surfaces smooth. If there's still a lot of glue/epoxy that squeezed out of the joint, you may find it easier to start with a scraper or relatively aggresive sandpaper (like 60 grit.)

If done properly, the joint will be stronger than the wood on either side of it.
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Old 04-19-2010
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I'd point out that those rails should probably be replaced.
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Yes Dog. That is what I had in mind. The plans is not to glue these back together. I guess the question really is where would I find new rails? The only thing that Google gives me for teak in Cleveland is some lousy furniture. Will I be able to find teak at the local lumber yard? Would anyone carry rails with a groove routed out already?

...and the snow is melted
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Old 04-19-2010
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They will be custom - every boat is different. But not that hard to make. The best source for teak will be a good hardwood supplier, not the local lumberyard - unless maybe you're in a boatbuilding mecca like Maine. Try the local yellow pages or the internet.
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Go to a hardwood flooring store, and if you can, bring a piece with you. you might be surprised at what they have. Or, hit up a good small lumberyard, not a big box store. A GOOD lumberyard can order anything you want or need.
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They probable are not able to order such a small amount of teak. Most lumberyards cater to construction and their stock in trade is 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s, not exotics like teak.
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Notice I said GOOD lumberyard. My local Home Building center will order teak in 8' minimum lengths, in a variety of widths and thicknesses.
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I think that's more rare than not. It depends where the op is. My local lumberyard has it in stock - Westwind Hardwoods. P J White out west stocks teak as well. In a major city there should be a hardwood supplier, and if they deal with it in reasonable volumes they should have shorts in stock. He doesn't need a piece 8' x 8". At the going price of $30 a board or higher that would be $160.
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