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  #21  
Old 04-28-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryHLucas View Post
Meaningless, unless you specify the current!
I agree.

ABYC publishes a table of wire gauge based on length and load with 3% Voltage Drop, and 10% voltage drop. Here is a link to the tables in PDF.

For example, given a 5A load (the lowest rated load in the table) and AWG 14 wire (what the OP has) the longest allowable run with a 10% voltage drop is 80'. If you want to tighten the spec to 3%, which as fairbank56 pointed out is required for navigation lights, the longest run for AWG 14 is 20'.

If the OP hasn't already purchased the wire, I suggest he consider going down an AWG size.
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  #22  
Old 04-28-2010
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Sorry E, but the wire he has is just fine for the load he's putting on it. I agree that 12 AWG would be a wiser choice...but if he's got the 14 AWG, it'll do.

The voltage drop for a 1 amp load is only 2.54% or so, and below the ABYC 3% drop suggested for nav lights. I'd recommend using the voltage drop calculator over at genuinedealz.com, since you can enter your own numbers in...

Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
I agree.

ABYC publishes a table of wire gauge based on length and load with 3% Voltage Drop, and 10% voltage drop. Here is a link to the tables in PDF.

For example, given a 5A load (the lowest rated load in the table) and AWG 14 wire (what the OP has) the longest allowable run with a 10% voltage drop is 80'. If you want to tighten the spec to 3%, which as fairbank56 pointed out is required for navigation lights, the longest run for AWG 14 is 20'.

If the OP hasn't already purchased the wire, I suggest he consider going down an AWG size.
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  #23  
Old 04-28-2010
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Thanks guys. Interesting stuff about the correct wire size. Latest plan is to go with AS 25, LED Bulb and 50' of 14/2 round wire from Genuine Dealz. The Davis light would be o'k but since I race at night I might occasionally flip on the anchor light to grab a look at the windex- just don't tell anyone.

I am going to start posting entries in the racing forum entitled the "road to Mackinac" detailing the preparations for my first time entry to the BYC Mack race. You will also be able to view our progress real time during the race.
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If you're planning on going with a Dr. LED bulb... DON'T. Not only are most of their bulbs not USCG certified in any fixture, but their quality control and warranty support are pretty suspect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanduskysailor View Post
Thanks guys. Interesting stuff about the correct wire size. Latest plan is to go with AS 25, LED Bulb and 50' of 14/2 round wire from Genuine Dealz. The Davis light would be o'k but since I race at night I might occasionally flip on the anchor light to grab a look at the windex- just don't tell anyone.

I am going to start posting entries in the racing forum entitled the "road to Mackinac" detailing the preparations for my first time entry to the BYC Mack race. You will also be able to view our progress real time during the race.
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  #25  
Old 04-29-2010
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Sorry guys,

Maine_Sail and sailingdog are right. That'll teach me to use the handy (lazy) tables.

There is a better tool that I have used to calculate the appropriate wire size. It is a program called "wiresizer.exe" - from Alden Trull Yacht Electrical Design. If you are into this kind of thing, here is a link.

After running it, the appropriate wire to power this 0.8A light would be AWG 16 which yields a 2.778% (or 0.333 volt) voltage drop.

So the long and short of it; the 14AWG is fine, and slight overkill!

(Can someone lend me a towel? I need to wipe off some egg....)
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Last edited by eherlihy; 04-29-2010 at 08:29 AM. Reason: corrected Maine_Sail from MaineSail
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  #26  
Old 04-29-2010
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Originally Posted by knothead View Post
Sorry Dog, it's a non issue in my book. I refuse to live my life worrying about what might happen in some hypothetical court case after some hypothetical accident.
In my mind, that's kinda like letting the terrorists win. I've got better things to worry about.

The Mega light is a lot brighter than the non coast guard approved kerosene light that I used for an anchor light for many years with no problem.
When I eventually upgrade to an LED anchor light, I plan on taking pictures and video of it from 3 miles away. (Maybe have witnesses on tape. "Do you see that masthead light?" Maybe ask my wife to blink the masthead light off-on a couple times to verify that it's our light on the video.) That ought to dispell any doubts about it in an inexpensive way.

That, and I usually anchorages when you don't even legally need a light. The LED would be a extra precaution.

--

For new installations, the cost savings from using thinner wire, helps offset the cost of the LED light. Then there's all the other benefits of current-draw, weight savings, long life, no corroded socket.

(Something to consider of you ever get away from dock powser... At 12 volts, an amp-hour added to you daily power needs costs roughly $1.50. That's 0.8 amp incandescent X 10 hours = $12, just for the electricity, when replaced by wind/solar and stored overnight in batteries.)

Regards,
Brad
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Last edited by Bene505; 04-29-2010 at 10:04 AM.
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