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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 03-06-2003
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need help: teak finishes

I''m new to all this. I''ve heard a lot about Cetol, Bristol, and other exterior finishes. But can someone tell me about regular traditional teak oils? Is there something wrong about there use on exterior teak, do they not hold up well, or require to much maintenance? I''m a woodworker, and I am a fan of the natural look and feel of a satin traditional oil. What are the pros and cons of oils for use on exterior teak? And if some of them are Ok, then what are some recommended brands, something that is not glossy, and has a lot of durability.
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Old 03-07-2003
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need help: teak finishes

Traditional oils do not last and also attract and hold dirt. I do not reccomend them. Varnish holds up better but requires more maintenance. I use Cetol light and so far am happy with it. I''m told but have no direct experience on the matter that the best system is to saturatem the wood with West System epoxy and then varnish. This is a lot of work but has the most longevity. I recently talked to a Carribbean charter skipper who told me that he made the mistake of oiling his decks and now has to do it every two weeks.
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Old 03-07-2003
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need help: teak finishes

Do nothing. Teak is meant to age naturally. Just wash with sea water every now and then.
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Old 03-11-2003
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need help: teak finishes

I started out with teak oil the first few seasons with my boat, and didn''t like it at all. Had to be reapplied constantly, and by the end of the season the teak looked like blazes despite the effort. Worse, the annual ritual of using teak cleaner and brightener was eating away at the soft portion of the grain, leaving a ridged look.

When Cetol first became available in my area, I sanded my teak smooth and applied five coats. Looked good for several years, until a few dinged spots allowed water under the Cetol, so I redid it. Have to admit that I didn''t apply one fresh coat like I should have one spring, and that''s when the appearance went downhill.

I''ve since switched to Armada for a couple of reasons. Armada is thicker, so you only need three coats to get a good finish. Also, the color is much closer to the natural color of the wood than Cetol.

Mark
One Step Closer
Lake St. Clair, MI
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Old 03-24-2003
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need help: teak finishes

Been using Behr #6 on in/out teak for maybe 10 or 11 years... start with raw teak (no finish... sanded) apply Behr #6 tung oil generously... leave on for period of time... if wood asorbs... then reapply and let alone for another period of time (period of time = maybe 20-30 minutes)... after application wipe wood with toweling to finish you desire... some areas of interior are buffed with machine to higher gloss. Re apply as needed... no paint brushes... no tapeing... basically treat as any good wood at home. BEHR #6 TUNG OIL is the SECRET. I constantly get complements and I am not one who likes to maintain brightwork. I prefer mechanical and electronics.
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Old 03-27-2003
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need help: teak finishes

I used both varnish and Cetol on brightwork on my former boat, and it usually delayed my launch date because of the need to wait for good weather.

The boat I purchased last fall is 30 years old with untreated teak, and looked good, no washboarding effect, but I gave into the impulse to do something with it and decided to try Deks Olje teak oil. My reasoning is that the oil isn''t dependent upon temperature and humidity, dries quickly,is easy to apply, yields a simple wet look to the wood without darkening it, and can allow me to get in the water sooner.

I hope that a light washing every now and then will keep the dirt out of the oil. So far, I''m just applying it to hatches. Will see how it holds up thru the season before applying to any fixed teak.

Anyone with experience with this oil? Comments?
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Old 03-27-2003
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need help: teak finishes

I use Epiphanes and am very very pleased. Its easy and holds up well.

Did use oil at first, did not like it at all. Did not even last worth a damn.

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Old 03-27-2003
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need help: teak finishes

The problem with teak is the wood has a soft core between each grain. When you oil the wood it soaks into the core and not so much the grain. Over time that core is eaten away leaving the grain, a rolling finish.
You need to protect that soft core from decomposing unless you like the rough look. But in reality the wood is trying to split open.
When I had an all wood vessel in S. Cal. years ago I used Deks Olge. It''s more like a hard wax than a varnish. It comes in simi-gloss or hi-gloss. The weather doesn''t matter except rain of course. It dries in about an hour in hot weather but usually not longer than three hours on the cooler days. In the morning I would treat and coat and then have the vessel out by noon.
Once the wood is clean and smooth you''ll need to put on at least three coats to start. The more exposure to sun the faster the wear.
For me it would last about three weeks in the hot summer and about three months in the winter be for it showed signs of up keep.
Then I would give it a light touch with scottch-brite and another coat. It doesn''t crack like varish but evaporates. When you start to see a little color change, that''s the wood starting to show through. That''s when it''s time for another coat. If it goes too far, then a light sanding in the bad areas with 120 and a couple coats brings it back to original.
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Old 01-22-2007
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Try pouring a couple of gallons of the Cetol (it's kind of expensive) and then it should burn nicely.
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Old 01-22-2007
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Vengence...LOL...that was a really stupid way to begin here...post a FLAMING response to a 4 year old dead thread!
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