Tricks for laying a clean bead of sealant needed - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 21 Old 04-30-2010 Thread Starter
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Okay, tape, dishwashing soap, latex gloves soI don't get a reaction.I will try again today. Thanks all for the responses.
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-30-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southshoreS24 View Post
they make little plastic tools for this purpose but sikaflex might be a little thick for it. as stated above, tape off and use finger, have lots of paper towels or rags handy and a garbage bag to put them in, as it will get everywhere very quickly.
i bought a set of those plastic jobbies to try, as they were pretty cheap. well you get what you pay for, I found them to be useless

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post #13 of 21 Old 04-30-2010
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A 1/4" popsickle stick works well-I run it an inch or two along the edge of what I'm sealing, wipe off the stick with a paper towel/rag, and repeat. The masking tape helps a lot, too.
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post #14 of 21 Old 04-30-2010
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not to get off topic, but those popsickle sticks are also good (or toothpicks) to help keep lexan from 'bowing out' while your sealant cures... just jam em between the glass and the frame at an angle and they help force the glass to be 'sucked in' to the bead on the inside of the frame, then can be easily pulled out later....

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post #15 of 21 Old 04-30-2010
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Tips on caulking i have learned the hard way:
1. Cut the tip of the caulking tube only half as big as the bead you are trying to lay. If you want a 1/2" wide bead of caulking, make sure the tip is 1/4" diameter.
2. Unless you are a caulking expert, don't try to cut the tip on an angle. Novices never keep a consistent angle on the gun to the work, so if you add another angle to the equation, you will end up with an unpleasant finish.
3. Make sure your gun is clean and the trigger and pushrod is lubricated. you want your gun to work smoothly.
4. Don't start at a corner or an end. start in the middle and work toward the end.
5. Squeeze the trigger with an even gentle pressure.
6. Don't start your bead with the tip against the work. Think of it like landing an airplane. Start to squeeze the trigger, as the bead starts to flow from the tip, "land" your gun and pull it along the bead, maintaining that smooth, even pressure.
7. Go with the flow, don't work faster, or slower, than the output from the gun.
8. Don't panic. You will get the odd glob and goober, but don't worry about fixing your mistakes until after you have completed your run.
9. before you work on your pride and joy, buy a couple of 12' 2x6s. Set them up on bricks or sawhorses, whichever is more applicable to the working height of the job you are going to be doing. Buy an extra tube or two of caulking and practice on the 2x6s. Caulking is cheap, often cheaper than the time, frustration and cleaning materials you will expend to clean up a sloppy job.
10. Make sure the caulk you are using is FRESH. If it is close to the expiry date on the tube, find newer stock.
11. Tooling- popsicle sticks, tongue depressors, plastic spoons work great, but they only work as well as the splooge bucket you need to keep handy. Don't bother trying to clean them as you go, when you load up your tool, toss it in the bucket, and grab a fresh one. a popsicle stick is good for a foot of caulking or less, so keep lots handy if you want a great looking job.
12. Masking tape CAN give you a clean edge, but be careful when you peel it off, especially if you are working on a long stretch, like caulking 30' of rubrail. The first few feet of caulking will start to cure before the last feet are laid, which will cause some edge fluttering and clinging when you peel off the tape.
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-30-2010
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bljones makes good points, i would also add that when you have laid a bead and are pulling the gun from the work, it is very handy to release the pressure on the gun, else the darn thing will keep squirting, and squirt all over itself and what ever you set it on.... then you have either more clean up or a big glob of goo on your fingers to find a home for

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post #17 of 21 Old 04-30-2010
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I'd point out that you should release pressure on the trigger BEFORE pulling the gun, just like you should apply pressure before starting the bead...

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post #18 of 21 Old 05-01-2010
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I wish I had read this thread a couple of weeks ago!

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post #19 of 21 Old 05-01-2010
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I like to wear four pairs of gloves at a time... peel them off as needed without having to run for a new pair. if you are bedding new hardware or re-bedding old hardware then put lots of tape down under the fitting and dry fit it. with a razor score the tape around the fitting, and remove the fitting. peel away the tape that was under the fitting and viola you have a prefect tape job. add goop, tighten your fittings most of the way but do not squeeze all the goop out. clean up the squeeze out with rags and fingers and remove the tape. come back tomorrow and retighten the fittings. good job.
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post #20 of 21 Old 05-03-2010
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I'll second the plastic spoons, they work great.

Another tip is to wax any nearby areas with a decent quality non-silicone wax, which will prevent drips from sticking and make it easier to clean up afterwards

ken.
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