Let the painting begin! - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 25 Old 05-06-2010 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by US27inKS View Post

I didn't see any primer on the boat before you painted. I will be very surprised if Petit doesn't recommend using an epoxy primer first.
Pettit does not recommend primer if the gelcoat is in good shape, just sand and apply.


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post #12 of 25 Old 05-06-2010
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I think it looks amazing, when I do my boat I hope I can get it even close to that finish..

My blog on boat related stuff:
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post #13 of 25 Old 05-06-2010
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It looks great to me. I would use primer anyway. Primer is good.
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post #14 of 25 Old 05-06-2010
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Both of those paint jobs are beautiful.

Can someone explain to me the roller and tip method of painting?

thanks
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post #15 of 25 Old 05-06-2010
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Patience during the prep work is the key. I to am in the process of restoring an older boat. US27inKS has it right. If you can see ANY blemishes before you paint you will see them after you paint. I for one don't want shiny dings or scratches. Good luck to you and keep up the good work.
P.S. I am using interlux with a primer.

It's all about the BOOTY
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post #16 of 25 Old 05-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turban10 View Post
Both of those paint jobs are beautiful.

Can someone explain to me the roller and tip method of painting?

thanks
The roll and tip method is pretty easy, but also easy to screw up. There is a video on Interlux's web site somewhere showing the method.

The roller type is important. Do not under any circumstances use a roller from the hardware store, not even for the primer. Redtree makes a good roller cover. It's an extremely thin foam roller that's also epoxy proof. This roller will allow you to apply the correct amount of paint, which isn't much.

The brush is extremely important too. Most paint manufacturers recommend a badger hair or similar brush to tip the paint. One of these brushes will set you back about 25 bucks. I didn't like the finish I was getting with my badger hair brush, so I went shopping. I found a set of paint brushes in the oil painting section of the local hobby store (hobby lobby) right next to Mr. Happy trees. They were a cheap "chip" brush, but the bristles were a very fine, soft nylon. These brushes were awesome. Almost no brush marks immediately after tipping, and those marks laid down about 5 minutes later. The best part was that these brushes come in a 3 pack for 3 dollars. I only used the 3" brush, and threw all of them away after each uses. The thinner to clean them would cost more than another 3 pack.

The roll and tip process itself is best done with 2 people. I had 3 people on hand when I painted because I was able to use a rolling scaffold. My friend would roll, I would tip, and whoever else we could get would drive the scaffold.

One of the first tricks you have to perfect is getting exactly the right amount of paint on with the roller. Too little and the brush will drag and leave ugly "chatter" streaks. Too much and the paint will run, and I'm not talking very much too much.

Roll the paint on, being careful to get the right amount of paint on. Then follow immediately behind with a dry brush to knock the roller stipple down. The brush should glide smoothly on the surface. If it doesn't, you could have too little paint, or the paint may need to be thinned a little. The brush should be held at about a 45 degree angle and make vertical strokes from top to bottom. I masked off the bottom of the boat with heavy masking paper. At the bottom of each brush stroke I wiped the brush on the paper to remove excess paint. If I didn't, the paint would run under the rub rail. If you make a mistake, or have a run, or anything else, DON'T GO BACK AND FIX IT. Odds are you'll make your mistakes in the first coat or two, and you'll be sanding anyway. Even if you make a mistake in the final coat, don't fix it. It won't look that bad after it dries, and you won't see it with the boat in the slip.

Have fun.


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post #17 of 25 Old 05-10-2010 Thread Starter
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Sand out the brush marks (sanded most of the paint off!), spray 2 coats, looks good, not great. I'm going to leave it alone for awhile (after putting stripes on of course) then wetsand and buff it either right before it goes in the water (couple weeks) or next year after the paint has a chance to cure.



















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post #18 of 25 Old 05-10-2010
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I would be happy with that and as cold as it is up there i am supprised you got such good results

Two part paint would have not been happy and it will be intresting to see how the one part holds up

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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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post #19 of 25 Old 05-10-2010 Thread Starter
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Yeah this stuff seems pretty forgiving, and I can buff and wax it unlike 2 part. It was actually 40-45 degrees when I started. What I did was thin a little, spray, wait 30 seconds to see what it would do, then thin a little more. Did this three times on my test piece, then sprayed the boat. I could have waited until better weather next week, but I want to let it cure a bit before it goes in the water, trying to get it in ASAP. I'd rather be sailing


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post #20 of 25 Old 05-12-2010 Thread Starter
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Boot stripes painted, still need to do the cove stripe, I'm doing that in vinyl but the stuff I bought was too fat...







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