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post #1 of 25 Old 05-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Let the painting begin!

This has been a busy week, I stripped the bottom and boot stripe, faired and barrier coated the keel, barrier coated the rudder, and painted the bottom today, and tried an experiment with the topsides. I painted the transom, no thinner. The paint is Pettit Easypoxy Ocean Blue. I did roll and tip, roll with a thin foam roller, and tip with a very expensive badger brush, and I have brush strokes. Also you can see two different names (sawdust and kathleen) as well as rochester still in there, it's raised in the gelcoat, 30 years of stickers will do that. I guess I have to just cover up with mine. It won't be perfect but they are nearly impossible to sand out. What I have read about this paint is that it's very forgiving and thinning usually isn't necessary. Well either it is or I have to work on my technique. Tomorrow I'm going to sand it, and try again with an experimental pane of glass (got LOTS of those laying around) the brush, thinner, and a foam brush too. Very happy with the color and the gloss though! Could not be happier with the color, pictures don't do it justice. I'm going with the Maine Sail CS36 scheme in case it looks familiar

























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post #2 of 25 Old 05-03-2010
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Very nice!

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post #3 of 25 Old 05-03-2010
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Thin it, and practice on a piece of plate glass first. Start at 5% and move up to no more than 10% as needed. Also, keep your tipping brush clean with a thinner-soaked rag. You want to knock the tops off the roller ridges, and a bursh that gets loaded up will simply move paint around.

BTW, check your pm's.
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post #4 of 25 Old 05-05-2010 Thread Starter
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Ok, first coat of color is on, and it's a 30'er. better than my first attempt on the transom but still not good enough. I need a helper, and I need more practice. Luckily I have 3 quarts and it takes only one quart per coat, so coat, sand, coat, sand, coat and done. Hopefully I'll get it right by the 3rd coat. Doing it myself is not going to work next time.













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post #5 of 25 Old 05-05-2010
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Is it possible to get a perfect glass finish with the roll/tip method? Does it have to be spray?


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post #6 of 25 Old 05-05-2010 Thread Starter
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Sure it's possible, it's just really really hard I'm thinking about manhandling my compressor into my van and hitting it with an HVLP gun.


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post #7 of 25 Old 05-05-2010
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Geez eMKay I think it looks awesome! I'm getting ready to do this to my boat. Hwo did you prep the bottom? Sand or chemical stripper? If you don't mind me asking what kind of bottom and barrier paint did you use? Looks sweet. Like a new boat!

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post #8 of 25 Old 05-05-2010
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Thin out your next coat a little more. With three coats of coverage, you should have enough film to be able to wet sand and buff out the worst of it.
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post #9 of 25 Old 05-05-2010
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Before you try to wetsand and buff it out, contact Petit to make sure their paint is compatible with that. I used interlux perfection, and if you wetsand and buff perfection, you will end up with a dull boat.

I didn't see any primer on the boat before you painted. I will be very surprised if Petit doesn't recommend using an epoxy primer first.

I was able to get a finish better than my neighbors spray job by using the roll and tip method. Preparation is key of course, and you may not want to put the effort into your paint job that I put into mine. Here's the play by play.

1) go over the boat with a fine tooth comb to find even the smallest ding or scratch and mark them with a pencil.
2) repair dings and scratches with epoxy filler. I used west epoxy thickened with microballoons. Sand filler with 80 grit on a flexible longboard.
3) repeat steps 1 and 2.
4) apply 1st coat of primer.
5) wet sand primer with 320 wet/dry. Use one of those handy squeegees for wetsanding (3M makes them) to find out when you have the area perfectly level, and all brush marks are gone.
6) repeat steps 1 and 2
7) Apply primer coats 2 and 3 and maybe even 4 as above until you cannot find the repaired areas to save your life.
8) Get a helper.
9) Apply 1st coat of paint. Thin the paint just enough so that the brush doesn't drag on the paint at all when tipping. It should be silky smooth, but don't over thin or it will run. One person should be rolling and the other tipping. Be very careful not to apply too much paint or it will run and you'll just waste the paint. If you don't apply enough, the brush will drag and leave ugly marks.
10) wet sand the boat with 600.
11) apply coats 2 and 3 and 4 as above, except don't sand the last coat.

If you want any hope of having a good looking paint job, you absolutely must wet sand the paint that's on your boat. Subsequent coats will not hide the brush marks in your paint.

When I painted my boat, I tried the high dollar badger paint brushes. I had the best luck with a very cheap nylon bristle brush I got at the local Hobby Lobby. The bristles were very fine and soft, and left only the lightest brush marks. Those brush marks laid down flat after about 5 minutes.





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post #10 of 25 Old 05-06-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueranger View Post
Geez eMKay I think it looks awesome! I'm getting ready to do this to my boat. Hwo did you prep the bottom? Sand or chemical stripper? If you don't mind me asking what kind of bottom and barrier paint did you use? Looks sweet. Like a new boat!

Ranger
I scraped the bottom and sanded it, most of the bottom paint came off very easily except for above the waterline, that I had to chemically strip. I only barrier coated the keel and rudder, the rest was already done. Just generic ablative paint as I didn't feel like removing every spec of old paint.


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