forestay turnbuckle conversion - furler - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-07-2010 Thread Starter
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forestay turnbuckle conversion - furler

Good Day.

(I did a search and really tried to get thru all the returns to see if this was covered, and I didn't see any...)

I'm installing a new Profurl C290. I'm not sure how to convert (short of calling up a rigger to have it professionally converted) the forestay's turnbuckle. A picture is worth a thousand words, so...

The pin that goes thru the forestay's eye (in the instructions) and the attached locking devices (labeled as #2) are used to attach the furling drum. Hope this makes sense.

Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 20 Old 05-08-2010
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Looks like they are showing no turnbuckle under the drum with the headstay fitting changed to an eye. I would think that would make the existing headstay too short. Hopefully someone who has installed one of these will chime in.
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post #3 of 20 Old 05-08-2010
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Jst swap out the piece you've got there for a turnbuckle bolt with an eye instead of a toggle. See this page for the turnbuckle EYE.

However, I would question if the turnbuckle will fit in the furler, since it doesn't appear to be designed to accommodate one. Also, there is the question of how you will access the turnbuckle, since the furler doesn't appear to allow for access.

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post #4 of 20 Old 05-08-2010
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SD is right in that you can just replace the t-bolt and toggle for a left hand threaded eye and a double jaw toggle. This doesn't change the overall length of the headstay the way adding a eye jaw toggle would.

The system is made to accommodate a turnbuckle but is often installed without one.
If you are replacing the headstay,(recommended) you can have it made either way.
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post #5 of 20 Old 05-08-2010
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I just installed the same unit on my boat. The instructions were, in some cases, not super clear. Spent a lot of time re-reading, re-thinking, and re-measuring.
If I recall correctly, one purpose of those gizmos labeled with the 2 are to secure the upper portion of the link plates to the non-rotating part of the furler body. On my setup, which is similar if not the same as yours, I just trimmed the overall length of each gizmo so they wouldn't butt against the turnbuckle. There was no pin used in that area. Then, a second toggle was added at the lower turnbuckle end. The second toggle joint is where a long pin was used to connect the lower end of the link plates with the forestay. The turnbuckle has to be adjusted (shortened) to compensate for the added length of the new toggle.
If you're not using link plates, I think that picture shown will still work, except that the turnbuckle would be inserted above the lower toggle. Then the pin would fit between the gizmos.
Hope that makes sense. All the paperwork needed to jog my memory is on the boat.
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post #6 of 20 Old 05-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigZ View Post
I just installed the same unit on my boat. The instructions were, in some cases, not super clear. Spent a lot of time re-reading, re-thinking, and re-measuring.
If I recall correctly, one purpose of those gizmos labeled with the 2 are to secure the upper portion of the link plates to the non-rotating part of the furler body. On my setup, which is similar if not the same as yours, I just trimmed the overall length of each gizmo so they wouldn't butt against the turnbuckle. There was no pin used in that area. Then, a second toggle was added at the lower turnbuckle end. The second toggle joint is where a long pin was used to connect the lower end of the link plates with the forestay. The turnbuckle has to be adjusted (shortened) to compensate for the added length of the new toggle.
If you're not using link plates, I think that picture shown will still work, except that the turnbuckle would be inserted above the lower toggle. Then the pin would fit between the gizmos.
Hope that makes sense. All the paperwork needed to jog my memory is on the boat.

I think you need to check your installation.
You aren't supposed to have to "trim the gizmo".
The special profurl pin is used to hold up the drum and the extrusions. How did you accomplish this?
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post #7 of 20 Old 05-08-2010 Thread Starter
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The TE series appears to be exactly what I was looking for. It even mentions "Profurl".

Then I see that I'd still need the toggle so that it will attach to the chainplate.

Does everyone agree this is the correct setup then?

Thanks for the introduction of riggingonly.com. As you can see I've been lurking a long time here, and just purchased a new-to-me Mariner 28 to sail Lake Michigan, upgrading from a 19' Prindle.
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post #8 of 20 Old 05-08-2010
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I don't know about everyone agreeing, but the rigger does.
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-08-2010 Thread Starter
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"trimming the gizmos" -- aka Locking Devices. Yes, they are to be trimmed:
The black Nylon locking devices are used to immobilize the pin provided with furling system and to keep the forestay lower terminal in the center of the drum mechanism. If the dimension of "C" (seq 9) [the turnbuckle size] is larger than 45/64", the locking devices must be shortened.

BigZ...The locking devices -- gizmos -- are not female threaded, like the ends of the pin is (male), so not sure how to get those into the gizmos. I could create the threads as I put on one of the locking device, but since the locking device is supposed to not turn, I'm unclear on to how to create the threads on the other locking device. I almost want to find a pin of the correct diameter (7/16") without threads to replace the one that came with the kit. I have an email into the US distributor, but don't expect a response until Monday at the earliest. (We'll see how good their customer service is.)

Thanks again to all.
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post #10 of 20 Old 05-08-2010
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The locking devices only keep the pin from moving side to side, should be no need to get female threads on them. They also stabilize the upper end of the link plates, if your installation uses link plates. Does it?
As you are suggesting, I also switched to pin with cotter key holes rather than the threaded pin unit.
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