removing cap rail and sealing deck-hull joint
We have some persistent leaks on our Pearson 385 that we can trace to the deck-hull joint, and so we are considering removing the teak cap rail and re-sealing that joint. Obviously this is a significant job ... the sort of thing we don't want to ever do again, so we are looking for some advice from someone that might have experience with a job like this.
Some of the specific questions that we have are:
1. How to re-seal the joint? I have today removed one section of the cap rail, just to have a look. There is a bunch of 27-year-old silicone in there. I was considering cleaning that out, and covering the joint with thickened epoxy & fiberglass (as suggested by another Pearson owner). But I am wondering if that is a good idea, giving the possibility of flexing in this joint area.
2. When I reseat the teak cap rail, should I use an sealant? Which one?
3. For the screws that hold the cap rail on, and that penetrate into the interior, is there any trick to make sure water cannot enter around the screw, through the hole?
4. Are there any tricks to removing the bungs, so that when I am replacing the teak piece the bungs look pretty good?
We are sure there are other things that we haven't even thought of yet , so feel free to suggest other issues to consider! Thanks for any advice you can give us.
I'm not positive what exact configuration of hull-deck joint you have, but I have an Allied Seawind ketch that I did the same job with maybe 8 years ago.
If I remember correctly, I used 5200 for the joint it self. I used a knife blade to get the 5200 into the joint as far as possible.
My hull/deck joint is through-bolted so I used 4200 to bed the bolts.
To bed the teak toe-rail back down, I believe I used 4200, as I wanted something just a little weaker, if I needed to take the toe-rail back off.
I've never had a leak there since.
I wouldn't worry about saving the bungs. You really can't get them out without ruining them. Take a small flat-head screw-driver and give the top of the bung a sharp whap, and that should split it.
You can easily buy replacement teak bungs at a marine-store. They usually come in a bag of many. Just tap the new ones in the hole. They come in different sizes, so make sure you get the correct size.
It's not really as intimadating of a job as it first seems.
Make sure you use LOTS of clamps during the job.
Regarding the bungs, my post was a little unclear. Of course I realize that I can't save the original bungs. I was just wondering how to remove them without damaging the hole, so that when I put the new ones back in the holes still are "clean". In fact, I think I found a good solution... I used a Dremel tool with an 1/16" endmill, and carefully route out the bung. When I get close to the edge, it usually pops out. Doesn't take much time.
Another way, and it maybe quicker, is to punch a small starting hole in the bung, and then thread a wood screw a good way into the bung. Grab a hold of the wood screw with pliers going side to side, and the bung SHOULD start to break lose in one piece. You can then simply lift the bung out with the screw. I have done it this way, too, with good effect.
This may save time and the possiblity of slipping with the router. Just san idea. But sometimes bungs expand and get jammed in, so the router is good, too. Good luck.
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