Standing rigging- Doing it myself - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 23 Old 05-13-2010
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what i would do to save cost and still have it be a diy job. is to get a rigger ( mail order ) to make up all the cables with pressed fittings on the top, and have the cables a little long. then cut and use stayloc or what ever on the bottom end. this makes sense because you will save a little money on not using the mechanical fittings for the whole thing. but it is still a diy job, and some parts are reusable. also having a mechanical fitting where you cant check them easily is a bad idea in my mind.

this is what i did when i needed a new stay, cost for a 38 foot stay with a pressed top and the stayloc fitting was about 80 bucks ( cable size .220 ) at that price my whole boat would be less than 700 ( 8 total stays/shrouds 36' mast length )
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post #12 of 23 Old 05-14-2010
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If you want to do it yourself, drop the mast, meaure everything, and have the pieces made up. A thousand for labor actually doesn't sound unreasonable. That's only 10 hours at $100 per hour.

I have to agree with your retired rigger friend. My previous 7000 lb 30 footer had all 1/4" stays and shrouds. My current 33 footer has 5/16" forestay and backstay and 1/4" shrouds.
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post #13 of 23 Old 05-14-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyt View Post
what i would do to save cost and still have it be a diy job. is to get a rigger ( mail order ) to make up all the cables with pressed fittings on the top, and have the cables a little long. then cut and use stayloc or what ever on the bottom end. this makes sense because you will save a little money on not using the mechanical fittings for the whole thing. but it is still a diy job, and some parts are reusable. also having a mechanical fitting where you cant check them easily is a bad idea in my mind.

this is what i did when i needed a new stay, cost for a 38 foot stay with a pressed top and the stayloc fitting was about 80 bucks ( cable size .220 ) at that price my whole boat would be less than 700 ( 8 total stays/shrouds 36' mast length )
We are also going this route. Although we decided to go with swage fittings top and bottom - I doubt we will have the same boat in 10 or more years when it is ready to be replaced again (the originals have held up for over 20). I'll add that dending on the manufacturer of your existing rigging, you may or may not be able to get compatible mechanical toggles for the upper ends. You may want to PM Knothead on this site (Steve Smith). He and his company SSMR are making our wires, and he has been exteremely helpful in terms of being available to discuss the project and walk us through the process. I never would have known that there are slight differences in t-ball fittings between manufactuers, and that they are not all compatible with the same backing plates. That advice alone has saved us a lot of potential missery, not to mention wasted money. PM me if you want his number.
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post #14 of 23 Old 05-16-2010
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I was able to drop the ?33-35' deck stepped mast on my boat at the dock and bring it home with a dinghy trailor-not a walk in the park, but once home, reinstalling new standing rigging on the mast was a breeze.

I went with a local swaging company, Seattle area, for simplicity.

But if I had to do it again, unless I was replacing only one shroud, (which unfortunately I do have to do since I bent a stud when it caught in the companionway as we were cranking the mast back to vertical again), I would bring the mast down.

It would probably even be worth the cost of crane time, and even so it sounds like you would save $ compared to hiring a rigger.
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post #15 of 23 Old 05-16-2010
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As for tools, you'll need a drill (if you are going to upsize with lubricant), spray for stuck pins, wire cutters on deck, tape measure, silicone or 5200, wrenches, pliers. Also if you do this while the mast is up you need a way to hold the tang compression tubes from falling through the mast while you are aloft and a whole lot of stuff. Good luck to you!
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post #16 of 23 Old 05-16-2010
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I'd do as suggested and order a bit overlong with swages for the top end and use mechanical for the bottom end. The mechanical fittings (Sta-Lok, Hayn, etc) are easy to use. I wouldn't oversize unless changing every fitting, on mast as well as possibly the chainplates. Rigging should be set up to about 20% of its max working load and larger wire will have more loads. More load and a drilled out fitting with less meat around the hole is a bad combination.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #17 of 23 Old 06-30-2011
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i just bought a 73 irwin 32.5 that needs a complete Restoration and is missing the standing rigging and the spreaders i am in puerto vallarta mexico living aboard. i want to do all the work myself any idea on the cheapest way to go....
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post #18 of 23 Old 06-30-2011
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Buy bulk wire of the right size. Install spreaders. Get a local rigger to swage the upper ends or use Hayn Hi-Mods which are easy to use and will not require a rigger. Leave them long and hold the mast up temporarily with 4 lines and the rigging attached to the mast. Get it in column. Do the lower ends one at a time with Hayn Hi-Mods.

Brian
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post #19 of 23 Old 06-30-2011
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where is the best place to buy it an ship it to mexico, thanks for your help and by the way do you know where to buy a set of spreaders to fit my boat thanks again
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post #20 of 23 Old 06-30-2011
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spreaders irwin 32.5 cc

hi i need help i just bought a a irwin 32.5 and its missing the spreaders can somebody give me the messurements and maybe a picture would be nice help please
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