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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 05-13-2010
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Standing rigging- Doing it myself

I had a quote done and and after the ungodly price was given I decided to go it myself. Afterall I have worked up there befor and can get the non crimped/rolled attachments, turnbuckles and cable.

Any suggestions on which brands to use there is the sta-loc, Norseman and Hayn from what defenders catalog shows. And I am considering going up a size as suggested by a retired rigger that lives on my dock, any thoughts on that?

The boat is an Irwin 32.5 center cockpit sloop. It currently has 1/4'' forward, uppers, and backstay. And 3/16'' forward and aft lowers.
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Buy the most comfortable chair if you decide to up size. You will be spending hours drilling the tangs (providing that you have enough metal to have at least the circumference of the new hole size, not to mention the additional width required to share the load) without compromising clevis pin loading.

Mechanical fittings are going to cost a bit at the front end. If you install them correctly, they can be reused.

I would go for an open body turnbuckle - stud to toggle, you probably have old Navtec turnbuckles which do not work in rerig situations.

In the end, you are going to pay more for mechanical fittings, gall a few in the learning process, and become exasperated over the whole ordeal.

What price were you quoted for an entire rerig that you thought was out of line?
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Old 05-13-2010
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I was quoted 2500 for everything but the headstay as it was replaced a year ago when I got rid of the old profurl for a new hank on sail.

What is kicking me is the 1000 bucks they want in labor. Just the quick math in my head I think I can have the materials for less than 1500. I am going to call defender and have them price me the materials tomorrow.

I do not know about going up a size, is it worth all the drilling as I do hope to go cruising in a couple years but I don't intend to do a Atlantic nor Pacific crossing but mostly the eastern Central America from TX.
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The drilling will go easier if you know how to modify the drill bit so it doesn't grab in the existing hole, get stuck, wrap the cord around your arm, break your wrist, or throw you out of the bosuns chair!


Gary H. Lucas
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The boat was designed for the right rigging sizes, loads. etc. Sometimes when over thinking oversized rigging - the rig "HOGS" the boat when trying to tension/tune, this causes the deck sometimes to "lift" or separate from the hull/deck joints, the head door will not shut, the lockers become stuck, etc. I would thank your dock buddy and stick with original sizes.
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Old 05-13-2010
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The boat may have been designed with the right size rigging, but for what type stainless? The current 316 stainless isn't as strong as older 308 (which mine was equipped with). Using the 316 absolutely would require a step up in size to maintain the original strength specs, if this is the case. Maybe that's what the rigger was speaking of.
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Old 05-13-2010
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Thanks sailor50, any thoughts on the different brands of mechanical fittings?
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Old 05-13-2010
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What does the process entail?

I'm assuming raw materials include:
1) stainless steel cable
2) Swage fittings for the ends
3) tools to attach the fittings

So is all that is holding the fitting to the end of the cable a crimped end? That is kind of amazing to me!
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Have you tried calling around to other rigging shops? If you mast is down and you can take everything off at once, you should be able to do it cheaper than $2500 even with shipping. I would suggest looking into riggingonly.com in Fairhaven, MA. They were hesitant to give me a quote but they did have the best price around by far. There are probably other rigging shops that will copy everything for similar prices out there as well.

If you prefer to go the mechanical route, then it might make sense to do it yourself.
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Sta-Loc Fittings.

Most standing rigging wire used today is type 316. Lesser numbers 302, etc., have more monel and are more costly, used in the aircraft industry, construction, etc.
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