Teak refinishing and repair - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 22 Old 01-28-2001 Thread Starter
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Teak refinishing and repair

G''day all,
I just purchased a wonderful craft as a first sail boat in 15 years. One little problem, the previous owner spent all the time below deck or not on the boat at all. The teak on the hatch and the toe rails is in desperate need of repair and refinishing. I would appreciate any suggestions you might lend.
Thanks,
M
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post #2 of 22 Old 01-29-2001
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Teak refinishing and repair

First, sand off all of the previous finish. I would then, if necessary, bleach out the wood using one of the products available commerically. I would not use one of these two part teak cleaners; they are an acid which eats away the top layer of teak. After you prep the surface, I would put 5-7 coats of Eppifanes on. The first coat should be 50% Eppifanes / 50% thinner, the second 75% Eppifanes / 25% thinner. Sand lightly in between coats and make sure you tape off with a low tack masking tape like the blue- and green-line products from 3M.
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post #3 of 22 Old 01-29-2001 Thread Starter
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Teak refinishing and repair

Thanks again Ham for the suggestions. As far as the bleach product .. do you reccomend any particular brand? Do I use any type of stain before I apply the Eppifanes or does it have nayural staining qualities? The masking with the 3m products....is this like a household masking tape for painting? Sorry to be such a novice!!!!!
Michael
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post #4 of 22 Old 01-29-2001
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Teak refinishing and repair

The bleaching products are just that, bleach. Any brand would be fine. Teak is a beutiful wood. The eppifanes has a tint to it but is not a stain, a paint, or other such obsurer of the grain and the color of the natural wood. There are other options, however. You could simply oil the teak. I find that it does not last long and that you need to constantly reapply the oil. It is, however, a simple process; you just slap some on with a rag or a cheap bush and then blot off any excess. There is also a product called Cetol that has gotten very high marks. I used it one year and it holds up quite well. I personally dont like it as it looks to me like brown paint and obscures the wood. I suggest the eppifanes from personal experience and due to the fact that most megayachts make it their choice. I have no relationship to the company.
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post #5 of 22 Old 01-30-2001
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Teak refinishing and repair

With regard to your masking tape question; use a high quality, low tack tape like 3M''s Blueline tapes. Blueline tape is NOT like indoor masking tape. If you use indoor masking tape, you will have a huge adhesive removal job when you take the tape off the hull.
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post #6 of 22 Old 02-02-2001 Thread Starter
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Teak refinishing and repair

I have just one more question regarding your suggestions, hamiam. I was at Strictly Sail in Chicago and looked for the eppifanes(sp?) you suggested. No luck. Can you tell me a brand name or supplier for these products?
Thanks for the assistance,
Michael
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post #7 of 22 Old 02-02-2001
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Epifanes is the brand name. It can be found at www.defender.com or www.westmarine.com / Read and follow the directions careful and you should have excellent results.
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post #8 of 22 Old 02-02-2001
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Teak refinishing and repair

G''day mate. awaryadjavagoodweegend?FERGIT the fancy stuff mate,...Teak is a beautiful wood and DOES NOT NEED TO BE BLEACHED!!!!If you use regular masking tape you''ll need adhesive remover .AND,,,,use a nice easy varnish from Z-Spar or something...Yachtsmens, or if you''re good...Captains....Man''o''War is also a nice flowing even layout product.I am a pro, and my tip to you is,.....method!! Be serious. Be consistent.Be thorough,Be meticulous......then apply varnish. Stay away from anything with -ane on the end of it.AT ALL TIMES. The most important part of varnish is prep. An old Italian Sailor in Sydney told me back in ''66......"good varnishwork is hidden inside sandpaper.You just have to rub enough of it on the wood".Sand your...paper ready wood from 60 (if it needs it) to 80 to 100.Don''t waste time or money sanding any more than that. Use a speed block sander. Cut your paper into quarters with scissors.Wipe down your work everyday before you start with thinners. Sand your last time with the grain, by hand.dust down the boat with a hand brush...I use a painters brushabout a foot long with black bristles with the handle sticking out the end.Apply your 50.50 mix. Next morning early...HOSE DOWN THE BOAT!...Then wipe your 50/50 with paint etch....get a half gallon, use it every trime you touch your job.Every morning wipe ''er down. Apply a coat go home.Next day.....etch, then varnish. Don''t make the same fool mistake that everyone else does by applying a coat then sanding it all off the next day...sheer stupidity.Cautiosly apply your varnish!!!!If you get a run and you find it the next day, scrape it off with your fingernailand let it cire for an hour or two before you etch and re=coat.I do not sand any brightwork until at least five coats are on! Then I sand once with 120, with a block where useful on large planes to create a single surface, or not at all on corners or wear areas. Go around the marina and look at all the varnishwork you can and notice how most every one starts to burn on a curved surface like a handrail or a cabin trim or the like. Corners sand off easier and burn first, so don''t do it.I''m transfering title right now and my site will be searchable as maritimetradition.com.......currently you can look up some of my works at...maritimetradition.homestead.com.......ciao for now...........Rev. Mike
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post #9 of 22 Old 02-13-2001
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Teak refinishing and repair

What is Eppifanes? Nobody I know has ever heard of it. Rob
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post #10 of 22 Old 02-14-2001
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Teak refinishing and repair

NOW ROB.......What did I just say about staying away from anything ending in -ane?? What you know now isn''t the half of it....Rev. MIke
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