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  #11  
Old 05-21-2010
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i just finished varnishing. i used petit's flagship premium varnish & intend to launch in a few days. at $48 a quart i believe it will last longer than the cheaper stuff i was using.
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Old 05-21-2010
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Having just used Bristol Finish on our hand rails on the cabin top as an experiment I am not impressed with the way this product applies either. It is not an epoxy based product but a urathane product and smells a lot like nasty nail polish. I like the way it looks and feels but I will see how well it holds up to the elements.
I am done with varnish which ends up being a nearly full time job on my boat and Cetol is my new favorite: Natural Teak that is. Looks nice, easy to apply and not really stinky (I liked the smell of Schooner varnish too) as well as not so damned expensive but does require annual maintenance instead of monthly with varnish. Who has time for putting 8 coats on anything? Do we live in Siberia or something?
There are a lot of folks who seem to think that Epiphanes makes a great varnish. I have not tried it and I can't believe that it is much more reliable then the Interlux Schooner I was using. My guess is that these folks are dock queens and do not spend much time actually sailing their boats.
Life is short, wood is wood and my hair is probably getting grayer like the teak on my boat.
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  #13  
Old 05-23-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genieskip View Post
I am a total convert to this philosophy. Last year I sanded everything on deck and gave it 5/6 coats of Ephifanes. It looked like hell a year later so I sanded everything clean and left it and plan to leave it. Brightwork looks great but till I have paid hands to do it I'm going with the natural look.

Incidentally, I had some "spillage" of the varnish on the fiberglass nonskid. Any good suggestions on how to get it off?
Anyone else here see the irony? A thread started about varnish that won't stay on leads to a questiong about how to get it off? My advice... Point that section of deck to the sun and wait a month.
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Old 05-23-2010
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YUP, same here - disappointed.

We completely stripped our teak (formerly varnished and failing) toe rails 3 years ago, and applied 4 coats of Bristol Finish as per the maker's instructions. Figured that it should hold up to atmospheric conditions in Maine (not Florida sun!). Last year it started failing, and not just on the edges. Sadly, we went through the same process on the dorade boxes and cockpit trim two years ago - - - yeah, same result. We're going to re-strip the failed areas, feather them in, and go to Epiphanes varnish. Won't buy Bristol Finish again!
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Old 11-25-2011
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Bristol Finish Problems

Hmmm Last winter I just finished a 6 month bright work rehab project on my Hinckley Southwest 50 this past June. The surface maticulously dusted and a final wipe of Denatured alcohol was given just prior to applications. All the teak was stripped and sanded to 220 grit. We had 320 grit between coats and laid up 12 layer build by hand. The finish and last coat was Alcraft clear sprayed on by a pro. Over quality of the project was good However the Bristol is failing at the calked seems between the cover boards and combings in the cockpit. I believe this is a function of contraction and expansion of the various materials. All the work was done in a heated shed with low humidity. So far the horizontal surfaces have been holding up very well However I have a growing problem from the seams. Fortunately, all I will have to do is refinish what is the easiest surface on the boat! For the cost of materials the jury is still out. I will let you in 3 years if I think it was worth it.

Wade C
Aboard Solstice Hinckley Southwest 50 #22.
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Old 09-16-2012
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Re: Anybody elsed have trouble with Bristol Finish?

this wins my nomination as the single most appropriate advice of the year; her it is,
Relationships are everything to me..everything else in life are just tools to enhance them.


The purchase price of a boat is just the admittance fee to the dance...you still have to spend money on the girl...so court one with something going for her with pleasing and desirable character traits others desire as well... or you could find yourself in a disillusioned relationship contemplating an expensive divorce.
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Old 09-16-2012
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Re: Anybody elsed have trouble with Bristol Finish?

In my other life as a paint chemist my initial reaction based solely on what was posted, is that the failed teak held a lot of moisture below the surface. I can state with authority that for the most durable bright work finish is for the wood to have less than 6% moisture, be completely encapsulated in epoxy, and have at least 8 mils of a good PHENOLIC! varnish. Note, phenolic/alkyd don't cut it. I would also prefer to see the finish coated with a good Carnuba wax; and re-wax as soon as water fails to bead up. Do that and the coating will last.
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Old 09-16-2012
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Re: Anybody elsed have trouble with Bristol Finish?

My boat had teak plywood seats in the cockpit, teak hatch boards, and rails for the sliding hatch. My desire to have a dockside queen having faded a long time ago, I replaced it all with Starboard. I bought one whole 4x8 x 3/4" sheet at a very good price and replaced all the teak except two handrails. It make look industrial, but my goal is to sail not work on the boat. As many of you may know, all I've done for the past 4 years IS work on the boat!

Gary H. Lucas
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Old 09-16-2012
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Re: Anybody elsed have trouble with Bristol Finish?

the bristol on my ex catalina 36 latest about three years in the pacific northwest and looked great with a nice wet-looking finish. I sold the boat before i had to re-do it ;-) On my new boat though, i am a convert to the silver look (but have very little teak)
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Old 09-17-2012
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Re: Anybody elsed have trouble with Bristol Finish?

In my quest for that elusive perfect coating for brightwork- I too tried Bristol Finish and found it to last no longer than the other finishes which I'd painstakingly applied after first removing all traces of other finishes. At the price of Bristol I quickly moved to other products such as Epiphanes, which I've found to last as long as the Bristol. I don't know of any product which really lasts. If you want great looking brightwork you must resign yourself to a lot of refinishing! I know of some who varnish their wood with several coats then paint over it to reduce the work while on extended cruises.
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