Viable teak filler - does it exist? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-31-2010 Thread Starter
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Viable teak filler - does it exist?

Need to fill some old holes in my top teak hatch board (DPO installed a different size hasp) and some gaps around a few replacement teak bungs. I collected enough teak sawdust to use as a filler with epoxy but I'm not sure the epoxy will hold up to UV rays over time? Would Resorcinol mixed with the sawdust be a better choice?

Last edited by oomfh; 05-31-2010 at 09:35 PM. Reason: typo
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post #2 of 12 Old 05-31-2010
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Epoxy mixed with sawdust is the best option. Don't worry about UV rays; the filler will provide adequate protection. Resorcinol is dark purple and mixed with sawdust will look really ugly.

You're on the right track.

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post #3 of 12 Old 05-31-2010
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or use varnish, but epoxy will work the uv damage will only be to the top layer and i will basicly weather lust like the teak
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-01-2010
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use the west system 207? clear hardner. it is designed for what you're wanting to do, and has some UV inhibitors in it to hold up longer than regular epoxy as well.

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post #5 of 12 Old 06-01-2010
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Make sure that the teak is well sanded, and CLEAN. wipe the teak with some acetone and paint the surfaces to be filled with unthickened epoxy before filling with thickened epoxy. Otherwise, you will likely see your epoxy come free in less than a year.
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-01-2010
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I have used epoxy and it will still turn darker - even under Epifanes varnish. I've found the 207 quite expensive and it still turns darker over time.

When I removed a cable cam I created bungs out of teak to fit by using a coping saw and sandpaper. Teak sands so easily it doesn't take long to round it off then I used epoxy to bed it. Chisel it off and sand and you hardly notice.

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post #7 of 12 Old 06-01-2010
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In my opinion stevemac00's solution is much better. Apply a patch of teak instead of dust.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-01-2010
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I'd point out that when working with Teak...you should wear a decent respirator. The dust is pretty nasty stuff and causes long-term lung damage.

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post #9 of 12 Old 06-01-2010 Thread Starter
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Here's my challenge. As I was drilling out the very last plug my drill bit snagged the teak, cracking and tearing out part of the wood - a little too small, odd shaped and shallow to cut a piece to fit. I used West System G/flex 650 to glue in the plugs (see blue lines.) The guys at West System recommend I use the same product to fill this gap - mixed with teak sawdust.

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post #10 of 12 Old 06-01-2010
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If you go with the epoxy mixed with teak sawdust method make sure that your hardener is still clear. I did some patching like this earlier this spring and my hardener (205) was a bit old and had turned a ruddy color after a few years in the can. My patches cured fine but retained the ruddy color and overpowered the mixed in teak sawdust. If the hardener had been clear the patches would have been a better color match.
The 207 clear hardener will also yellow with age while 205 seems to get ruddy on me.

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