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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 03-21-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Having paint peeling problems on the bottom. Any suggestions for how to remove multiple layers of bottom paint and for products to use once I get it all off?
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Old 03-21-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Peel-Away seems to be the #1 choice. Or it''s Lowes/Home Depot equivalent. Second choice is probably blasting with sand or beads. A lot depends upon what the marina allows.

On my 37-footer I used paint scrapers, a wide one and a narrow one. Filed off the corners to prevent gouges. It took a long time but was very cheap with no dust or chemicals. I used 100 grit to finish down to white gelcoat.

There were about fifty pencil eraser size blisters that I dremeled and filled. Then five coats of Interlux 2000E barrier coat. I use a modified-epoxy bottom paint, Trinidad SR. I like the hard, smooth, fast finish compared to ablatives. I have easily gotten two seasons, could probably go three(in fresh water).
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Old 03-22-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Skipper

Question------
I have mine down to the gelcoat ready for the barrier coat. I plan to use the Interlux system also. My question is about the masking tape at the water line. Did you remove, and replace it each time between coats or did you leave it on through the whole program? And; then how did it come off when you were done?

Thanks----- Walt
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Old 03-22-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Years ago I had multiple lays of old bottom paint that I wasn''t looking forward to taking off. Too much like work! I used a pressure washer with a sand pick-up. The sand pick-up is simply a tube (aluminum with a hose attached) that I stuck in a bag of sand. The other end of the hose was attached to a fitting at the end of the pressure washer wand. The venturi effect of high pressure water screaming by the hose created a vacume, sucking the sand up and blasting it onto the surface. Worked very well. A local sand company should be able to tell you what type of sand you should use (75 lb bags). No dust, very little risk of doing damage to the bottom. The finished surface is perfect for the Interlux Interprotect system of epoxy coating.
If that''s not something you want to try, here''s another idea that I figured out due to my lack of willingness to hold a sander against the bottom of my boat for hours at a time. I had to sand but couldn''t hold the sander very long (weigh of the sander plus the pressure to apply it to do any good). I purchased a pole sander (used for drywall applications) with a large metal head and metal universal joint. Not the plastic ones, they won''t last. I took my large power sander and nylon strapped it to the sanding pad. The I used a couple of wooden blocks on the ground under the boat where I wanted to sand. Put a 2 x 6 plank about 8 ft long on the blocks. Placed the pole of the pole sander on the middle of the plank which pushed the sander against the bottom of the boat! The flexibility of the plank allowed for applying the right amount of pressure against the hull. All I had to do was "drive" the sander along the bottom where I wanted to sand. It worked great!
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Old 03-22-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Be careful with that paint stripper! I damn near watched my little 15-footer shrivel up and melt away from the regular stuff! I tried the stuff meant for use on fiberglass but that patent crap was about as effective as spring water!

I tried all sorts of paint removing systems on her but the best thing proved to be going at it with a good quality random-orbital sander with mass quantities of 40 grit paper! The corners were tapped out with a ball-peen hammer, sometime assisted with a dull chisel to loosen the paintís grip.

I watched a guy mess up his boat with a big orbital disk sander. He gouged the heck out of the gel-coat right down to the fiberglass in places. Another guy had great success cleaning off the bottom of his Tanzer 23 by getting a few mates together for a day with a bunch of razor blade scrapers and a package of a hundred industrial razor blades!

Aboard the big boat I burned the paint off with a SureFire propane torch head attached to a 5-gallon propane tank with 8 feet of hose. Heat a small area, about 2Ē X 2Ē for a couple of seconds, until it starts to bubble and scrape it off with no difficulties! You can almost walk right along with the torch in one hand and the scraper in the other.

But before you head off to the hardware store, I should point out that my boat is a fat wooden beasty with 1-Ĺ inch thick planking that can handle the heat created by this job. Iím not sure that fiberglass could withstand the same punishment!

I paint my bottom first with a blue leaching compound, hard bottom paint. Then I apply 2 coats of an ablative co-polymer in red. Itís time to do something about it when I start to see the blue.

Pi
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Old 03-24-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Take a look at www.virginsurfacing.netfirms.com
Put your cursor on the picture of the old Whaler called "WRECKLESS" and you''ll see what kind of job soda blasting does. Sand AIN''T NEVAH the way to go. My daughter started setting up the website and it''s a work in progress. We haven''t even formally started up the business yet. I stripped 22 years of bottom paint(s), hit the topsides, knocked rust off the transom and decks, cleaned the rust off all the hardware and rails, etc. in less than a day the first time I used the machine. I got heavy rust stains out of nonskid so it looks new. I figure a 40'' fin keel boat for a day''s work. You get your strippers, methelyne chloride poisons, grinders, sanders, scrapers and blades and let''s race - and see who puts more **** into the air. I''ve got a trickle of water going through the unit that keeps the dust down and all old paint drops straight down - for recovery onto a tarp, if you like. My blast media is food grade bicarb of soda - same thing that you put in the fridge, but processed to flow like sugar. When you''re done, you "gas off" the surface and any that hits the ground with citric acid solution (made from orange peels), it bubbles, releases CO2, and goes to neutral vs. the quite basic bicarb powder. You CAN blow a hole through a hull if you don''t know what you''re doing, but you can also take paint off one layer at a time. It''s all in tuning the blast pressures, which, for, say, gelcoat, tend in the 50 to 55 psi range. Good thing I tried it out on a dinghy first. At 85 psi she goes right through the glass. Oh yeah, by mid day we skipped wearing the Tyvek suit. Too damn hot this far south of the Mason/Kittery line. Pretty neat. KW
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Old 03-25-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

does anyone know of someone who offers this soda blasting service in RI?
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Old 03-25-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

Waltward,
I just finished painting the bottom of my boat. I purchased a new tape that Ace Hardware has out...it''s purple and is supposed to be okay if left on for up to 14 days. I left it on for 2 days with absolutely NO problem...it left no residue and came up with no problem.
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Old 03-25-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

kokopelli9

Bottom paint job, no problem. I have done that a lot of times. I have been using Ace Blue Tape. I have not seen the purple as yet.

My question is, when rolling on 5 or 6 coats of barrier epoxy. Just thinking that with all but the last coat set up tight it might be a real bugger to get the tape off. On the other hand I do not look forward to tapeing the water line five or six times, once is not a lot of fun. Just wondered what the other guys have experienced.

Thanks for your thoughts
Walt Ward
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Old 03-26-2003
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Bottom Job / Barrier Coat

I put on all the coats at one time, then peeled off the tape before it hardened. I think once it cures, the tape edge will be effectively "epoxied" to the hull.
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