A stupid snubber question?

[SanDiegoChip]

We have never anchored with a snubber. We have never anchored our current boat. We are about to go test our new anchoring system this Sunday. We have a new windlass and bow rollers etc.
We have 3/8 all chain rode.
My question is how far down the chain should the snubber go?
I have seen snubbers going into the water and some at say a foot from the water. Some have two lines some one.
Ours, because of our boat setup has two lines that will go to two cleats. Kind like a diamond shape.
Like this
Grab hook, anchor snubber, anchor bridle, anchor chain
For ease of use we would like to set the length and then splice two eyes to the cleat ends.
Does it even matter?

[SanDiegoChip]

We have never anchored with a snubber. We have never anchored our current boat. We are about to go test our new anchoring system this Sunday. We have a new windlass and bow rollers etc.
We have 3/8 all chain rode.
My question is how far down the chain should the snubber go?
I have seen snubbers going into the water and some at say a foot from the water. Some have two lines some one.
Ours, because of our boat setup has two lines that will go to two cleats. Kind like a diamond shape.
Grab hook, anchor snubber, anchor bridle, anchor chain
For ease of use we would like to set the length and then splice two eyes to the cleat ends.
Does it even matter?
Thanks,
Chip

[svHyLyte]

It would be wise to have your two snubbers each connected directly to your chain hook independantly of one another. In that way, should one fail you will still have one in place.

Ideally you would want the chain hook as far as possible from the bow to provide the greatest length of snubber possible to provide the greatest shock absorbtion. Further, ideally you should allow a good loop of chain to drape down into the water between the bow roller and the point of connection of the chain hook. The weight of the chain hanging down will act somewhat like the weight of a kellet. As the chain straightens out under a load, it will have to lift the chain loop which will suck up some of the energy pumped into the rode by the surge.

FWIW...

[CaptainForce]

I use two lengths of 5/8" nylon three-strand braid from my chain hook to port and starboard cleats and I usually deploy about 6' of each of these lengths before cleating these lines port and starboard. I tend to use a llonger snubber to absorb more shock it I'm anchored in a roll or storm. If you use spliced loops for your cleats you will lose the ability to adjust them; lose the ability to release them under load; and lose the ability to distribute the chafe of the line over a wider range which will decrease the "life-span" of your snubber. Things to consider, Aythya crew

[jackdale]

I would be reluctant to splice in an eye in the snubber lines. Just belay the line around the cleat; this will allow to to adjust or release the snubber as necessary. If you are dragging anchor, you need to be able to get more chain / rode out quickly.
(Of course, I also prefer to not have loops in my dock lines either.)

[SanDiegoChip]

Yes I agree, I will not put eye splices on the ends going to the cleats.
Plus I am thinking that a 1/2 line for a snubber may also be useful for more stretch in light air anchoring.
Would it be wise to put a rubber snubber onto the snubber line also? Or is that defeating the purpose?

[svHyLyte]

Further to JackDale's comments concerning adding loops to be used on cleats, should the wind/weather suddenly worsen and you find youself in need of more chain, the strain on the snubbers may be so great that you may not be able to release them short of cutting the lines verses simply casting them off and vearing more chain.

FWIW...

[TQA]

I am sure you have the message that eyes onto cleats are not good but also resist the temptation to skimp on the length of the snubber line 15 feet is about the minimum. You will rarely use this [propably never] but if you ever get into the situation that the boat is in a major steep swell with a cross wind you will want as much elasticity in your anchoring system as possible.

[sailingdog]

My recommendation is to have a bridle, rather than two separate snubber lines. Also, the snubber should be far longer than you're probably planning.

I generally recommend a 40-50' snubber, since this allows you to increase scope without requiring you to haul back the chain and remove the snubber before easing more rode out.

In general, you should let out at least 10-15' of snubber, depending on the diameter of the snubber. Cleat the snubber lines off, rather than using eyes, since that will give you the most flexibility in anchoring.

Originally Posted by SanDiegoChip

We have never anchored with a snubber. We have never anchored our current boat. We are about to go test our new anchoring system this Sunday. We have a new windlass and bow rollers etc.
We have 3/8 all chain rode.
My question is how far down the chain should the snubber go?
I have seen snubbers going into the water and some at say a foot from the water. Some have two lines some one.
Ours, because of our boat setup has two lines that will go to two cleats. Kind like a diamond shape.
Like this
Grab hook, anchor snubber, anchor bridle, anchor chain
For ease of use we would like to set the length and then splice two eyes to the cleat ends.
Does it even matter?

[Craig Smith]

Originally Posted by SanDiegoChip

We have never anchored with a snubber. We have never anchored our current boat. We are about to go test our new anchoring system this Sunday. We have a new windlass and bow rollers etc.
We have 3/8 all chain rode.
My question is how far down the chain should the snubber go?
Does it even matter?

The basic answer is it will depend on your boat and you will have to experiment a bit.

Generally we say 30' of snubber. With dual lines it could be less but your lines should also be smaller, otherwise you are decreasing the shock absorption capabilities once both lines are taut.

You can use dedicated rubber snubbers if you want, they can help reduce the length required, but since you're using two lines this would seem to be counterproductive.

General best practice. Use a rolling hitch to tie the line to the chain, not a chain hook. Deploy enough line to allow it to fully stretch before the chain takes up the strain. Worry a lot about chafe protection on the fairleads or rollers. Cleat the lines deckside. The chain should still be on a chain stop or similar. Make sure you're confident you can recover everything easily in an emergency.

www.rocna.com/kb/Snubbers