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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 06-30-2010
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Yes, it's the butt end of the exhaust manifold. How easy/hard is that to clean out? Any suggestions on how to clean it?

Checked with the mechanic today...he "thinks" the head gasket was ordered. Grrrr

It's ordered now, I talked to David with Galary Marine in Seattle and ordered what I hope to be all the things I'll need to change the head gasket.

It's starting to look like I'll be doing this myself with little or no supervision. Any tips on engine work greatly appreciated.

If I were looking for a career I think I'd check into becoming a Yanmar mechanic in Seward, Alaska.
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  #22  
Old 07-01-2010
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Before you waste any time or $, do a wet, and dry compression test...pm me the set of #'s, or post them on this thread, and I or someone else, will run through it with you, and everyone else, if you want. You need to do it for each cylinder. If I recall correctly... you said something to the effect that it was running great, and had about 1700 hrs? And there was oil in the heat exchanger? Don't pull the head, yet! Please....
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Old 07-01-2010
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This post is just to set a flag to my e-mail so I can keep up.

Have a Yanmar 30 hp diesel and believe it may be the same engine as being discussed here. Reading and learning is all, nothing to contribute.
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  #24  
Old 07-01-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capnblu View Post
Before you waste any time or $, do a wet, and dry compression test...pm me the set of #'s, or post them on this thread, and I or someone else, will run through it with you, and everyone else, if you want. You need to do it for each cylinder. If I recall correctly... you said something to the effect that it was running great, and had about 1700 hrs? And there was oil in the heat exchanger? Don't pull the head, yet! Please....
What else could it be other than a blown gasket or cracked head? I don't have an oil cooler or tranny cooler.

What do you mean by wet and dry compression test? What ballpark numbers should I be looking for on a compression test? The test sets I've found so far only go to 300PSI.

Do you work on these for a living? Do you have experience with marine diesels?
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  #25  
Old 07-01-2010
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The coke is removed by "mechanical means" i.e. whack it out with a cold chisel or whatever comes to hand, without cracking the fitting. A pneumatic needler would be ideal if you have it, most of us don't. A Dremel tool might help get rid of the hard parts without risking a blow to the manifold.

The most important tool for replacing a head gasket is a torque wrench. If you don't own one, I'd suggest don't buy the cheapest, and look for one that has a "snap" or "pop" setting for torque, not the old "analog read the scale" kind. Digital torque wrenchs are likewise a waste of money, IMO. Treat it like glass--all you need to do is drop it once to knock it out of calibration.

Then check the engine shop manual, buy one if you need to. The head must be bolted down in a specific sequence to a specific torque setting, and then re-torqued typically a month afterwards. The bolts themselves MAY be re-useable but the manual may tell you to replace them. Sometimes they are designed to stretch during installation--`and only be used once.

The rest is pretty much just simple wrenching. Although while the head is off, that's the perfect time to eyeball the cylinders and rings, send out the injectors for a rebuild or servicing, attend to other things that never get done while the engine is expected to be all in one piece and working.

A "dry" compression test is called ust hook it up and test. For a wet test, you add some oil to each cylinder first, in order to stop any blowby past the rings. That tells you if the rings need replacement.

Of course if you are pulling the head, you can also do a leakdown test to check the rings. You pour some fuel into each cylinder, to the top, and then go away for a while. If the fuel is gone, it has leaked down past the rings and it is ring-piston-cylinder time.

Some of this stuff you would find described in any shop manual for almost any common diesel engine, your local library is guaranteed to have something that will give you an idea of what's involved, if you can't get hold of a shop manual for yours easily. (Some are on the web.)
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Old 07-01-2010
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Thanks Hellosailor,

I have the Seloc Repair Manual for my engine and the USPS just delivered my Amazon order of Nigel Calder and Peter Compton books on diesels.

Understand elbow grease to clean the carbon out.

Other than the cost, is there any reason not to replace with head assembly?
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Old 07-01-2010
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I am sittin by the pool in hawaii, so i don't have a manual for your particular motor, and won't for another 2 weeks. I already know (80%) what is the matter with your motor, (all the clues are in your posts) and you could either waste your time pulling the head, or do the test. I would never buy the parts until I knew what the issue was, but thats just me. After I would have the results, I would ask you to preform additional tests. I don't want to type out everything in my brain that would cover every situation, your diagnosis should begin with the compression test. If by chance you have already got into it.... you will now be in the SEARCH AND DISCOVER phase of engine diagnosis. The only person who will help you then is goin to be the rebuilder, or engine dealer. Are you sure you want to learn this yourself? The curve is pretty steep and expensive on your own motor. My grand father always told me "if its fixed, don't fix it! I have a feeling you are gonna learn this... the hard way.... by the way, before you go ordering parts, look up the threads on foley engines here on sailnet.... just in case you are tempted by Dr. Diesel.
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  #28  
Old 07-01-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capnblu View Post
I already know (80%) what is the matter with your motor,
So please, tell me what you think it is.

Thanks.
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  #29  
Old 07-01-2010
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ok, please don't think i am being a smart ass, but, to determine what is wrong with your motor,... ya NEED TO DO A WET AND DRY COMPRESSION TEST! Because without those numbers, you cannot diagnose your engine... after that, and depending on the numbers you provide, i will be able to either tell you if indeed your head gasket is shot. I suspect, based on your posts you will determine that this is not the cause of the oil in your heat exchanger. I would not consider removing the head, untill I knew that this was the only issue. If your problem is elsewhere, and you pull the head,... you will be replacing alot more than a head gasket, on a motor with 1700 hrs! Not good in my book. If the problem isn't the head, but you pull it and reassemble the motor correctly, and nothing goes wrong.... you will still be where you are now, just poorer, and a little more frustrated. So first things first. the most information on the condition of your engine will be gained from the compression test, Then i am gonna ask you 50 questions! Maybe less. Then if the monster still hasn't stepped into the light the next thing is going to be an oil analysis.
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  #30  
Old 07-02-2010
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Capnblu,

You're not giving me any info. You keep implying you think it's something other than a head gasket or cracked head but you won't say what...frankly that puts a sprinkling of doubt in my mind about your expertise in the manner.
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