Replacing bulkhead bolted chainplates with deck bolted with a wire strut - Page 4 - SailNet Community

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  #31  
Old 07-04-2010
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Hardener either 205 or 206 which will give you more working time. Brush the holes with the liquid epoxy before mixing the colloidal silica in until it is about as thick as peanut butter. Place tape like duct tape over the holes on one side. Fill the holes with the thickened epoxy and tape over the remaining side until it is set. This will prevent sagging. I sometimes tape a piece of plastic over holes as the epoxy doesn't stick to it and when set it will leave a finish that requires little sanding.
I looked it up. what about 404 high density filler? I'm going to re-tab it with biaxial. Would 404 work for both applications?
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404 would work for filling the holes but what do you mean both applications? The biaxial should be wetted out with epoxy without thickeners added.
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404 would work for filling the holes but what do you mean both applications? The biaxial should be wetted out with epoxy without thickeners added.
what else could i use it for?
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Not for wetting out the biax. It should never be wetted out with thickened epoxy. Here's a link to West's Fiberglass Repair Manual. You can download this and it is full of good advice for using their products or really any other companies epoxy products. Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration
The link to the manual is at the top of the page and the articles below are worth reading as well.
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Not for wetting out the biax. It should never be wetted out with thickened epoxy. Here's a link to West's Fiberglass Repair Manual. You can download this and it is full of good advice for using their products or really any other companies epoxy products. Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration
The link to the manual is at the top of the page and the articles below are worth reading as well.
how much of everything will i need?
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Buy biaxial tape long enough to do the tabbing you need in as many layers you wish. You won't need a lot of resin so I'd start with the 32 oz size and the matching 7oz of 206 hardener. If you need more you can get another. I think the next size up is a gallon and you shouldn't need that much unless you are going to be using it for other things. The 404 comes in a container about 4" in diameter and 11" high. That should do the job. Disposable brushes as it's not worth trying to clean them and a 3" basic roller with a few extra sleeves. Latex gloves and acetone to clean up.
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Buy biaxial tape long enough to do the tabbing you need in as many layers you wish. You won't need a lot of resin so I'd start with the 32 oz size and the matching 7oz of 206 hardener. If you need more you can get another. I think the next size up is a gallon and you shouldn't need that much unless you are going to be using it for other things. The 404 comes in a container about 4" in diameter and 11" high. That should do the job. Disposable brushes as it's not worth trying to clean them and a 3" basic roller with a few extra sleeves. Latex gloves and acetone to clean up.
How many layers of biaxial tape is the normal for a bulkhead?
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For a structural bulkhead of any kind I would use 2 at least, maybe 3. Fillet the corner first with thickened epoxy by using a piece of plastic or wood that has a round corner. This stops the biax from having to take a corner and leaves it in a gentle curve. You might find it easier to cut the biax into easy to manage strips about 2' long or so and wetting them out before putting them on. Do this on a piece of plywood covered with thick plastic wrapped over the edges and stapled or taped underneath. Wet the biax thoroughly but make sure there is no excess resin as it adds nothing. Use the roller to squeeze out any bubbles. Overlap the biax, first to one side and then the other and finish up with a layer down the middle. Or use several widths of biax, starting with the narrowest and then the thicker ones.

ps You have used the quote button more in this post than I have in over 2000 posts.
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ps You have used the quote button more in this post than I have in over 2000 posts.
Huh? ahahha
what if I was making a mold for the companion way slider hatch. regular glass cloth? biaxial reinforcement? How many layers?
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I'd use 2 layers of plywood curved over a form with epoxy between them and then glass over it with epoxy and light cloth. Easier as you don't need a mold, just as strong and cheaper. Just as durable as well.
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