Woodwork.

Tweegs · #1 (**permalink**) 07-09-2010

Couple of things going on that I’d like to get some input on. As promised, I dug around looking for answers before posting, but some of those answers brought up more questions.

First, I am refinishing the galley. I decided to use a spar urethane with UV protection on the interior wood. Lots of fading around the port lights led me in this direction. I read here that 5 coats are recommended, but I was wondering why 5? On the outdoor furniture I’ve made, 3 coats have been adequate. Varnish/poly doesn’t build like lacquer does, 2 coats should provide enough UV protection, and the third coat leaves enough room in the finish to sand and buff out to a high gloss or satin. 5 coats just seems overkill to me, and I’m trying to understand the benefit as applied to interior wood. I’m not here to argue about it, there is a reason 5 coats is suggested, I’m just looking for someone to explain it.

Second, I’m working on the handrails and accent trim up on deck. The handrails were once varnished, but now most of the varnish is long gone, the now exposed teak was grey and uncared for. I’m not one to varnish teak, and with a little sanding and TLC, they are starting to regain their former glory. The accent trim below the handrails is another story.

The trim was too far gone to salvage, so I removed it and made new trim which left me with two new issues, the first being that I am going to have a color difference between the old and new wood. Without using a topcoat, stain or dye isn’t an option, it won’t hold up. Semco seems to be the preferred product for coloring and sealing boat teak, but I’m wondering how well it will come off the gel coat should I happen to dribble.

The second issue involves bedding the new trim.

I’ve read:

“Use a good-quality, marine-grade caulk from a recognized company when installing deck hardware. These products have UV and other inhibitors added that cheap, home-center products do not. Most sailors rely on 3M, Sikaflex, and LifeCaulk for these caulks. Be aware that there are three distinctly different marine caulking/bedding products on the market...”

But I’m having trouble with the UV and other inhibitors. Looking at a tube of 25 year, exterior grade, silicone based, household caulk, you would think this caulk would contain UV and other inhibitors given the warrantee. Deck hardware I fully understand wanting to bed with a high dollar caulk rated specifically for this purpose, but to use it on a piece of trim where the only load is in the amount of bend necessary to hold the curvature of the boat? Again, I’m looking for an explanation, rather than an argument.

cormeum · #2 (**permalink**) 07-09-2010

Regarding varnish, 5 coats is just a suggestion based on someone's experience. Over bare wood (interior) I do 1 coat of non-blushing epoxy and 4 coats of varnish. But as they say YMMV.

You may want to let your new piece of teak weather a bit rather than trying stains. Alternaitvely you could oil the whole thing which should even up the color.

Silicone caulks just generally don't work well on boats, especially for bedding hardware. Polysulfide caulks work better or in certain cases butyl tape. Since bedding hardware is a PITA, it's better to use the right material.

mitiempo · #3 (**permalink**) 07-09-2010

I wouldn't stain the teak as time will even the shades. Teak because of its oil content does not take to stain very well either.
I would second not using any silicone based bedding. Leaves a residue nothing, even silicone will stick to.