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Old 07-18-2010
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I NEED EXPERT ADVICE on wooden sailing boat!

Hello everybody,

I NEED EXPERT ADVICE on wooden sailing boat!

I am aware of the work which will be involved with wooden boats, but I have a concern:


I am considering buying:

a 24 ft Koster made in Sweden 1960

Hull is made of: Mahogany on oak (Carvel build)
The boat was kept in the same family for many, many years ( around 25 years)

Under the waterline the boat is having a plastic / (according to the owner) a thick epoxy coating and when I looked at it, feels like a thick flexible rubber coating. This was applied 15 years ago. The owner also told me that every year the upper edge along the waterline, needs to be checked, because the edge might loosen a little, just only a few mm. but needs to be re-glued with epoxy glue in order to avoid this going any further.

(Image 1, see link below to my gallery)

This means, the hull under the waterline is completely sealed and should not let any water coming through.

After scraping the hull above the waterline (the freeboards), the owner applied a varnish called Coelan (one of the most expensive on the market) which is a Polyurethane varnish. Of course the inside of the hull is not varnished at all so the hull is able to breath.

With this type of carvel build boat, it's not unusual that in the beginning of the sailing season (after the winter) some water will get through the freeboards when the wood is very dry. The owner told me that this is happening.

This is not my major concern!

Next point:

The cockpit is not self bailing. Any water from rain (fresh water) or (salt) water coming in whilst sailing flows via the drain holes in the cockpit floor boards over the inside of the hull to the lowest part of the hull just above the keel.

(Image 10 + 14) see link below to my gallery)

The boat is having (of course) a manual bilge pump and an electrical bilge pump, from which the last one will be automatically activated the moment water is detected above the keel on the inside of the boat.

I know, it's normal for wooden boats to have water in this place. The boat is in the baltic (Stockholm area) , so it is in (cold) salt water (but the baltic is not as salty as the Atlantic or North sea!)

My Major concern:

Since the boat is completely sealed on the outside and fresh water is able to get inside when it rains, unless I use a cover for the cockpit, I just wonder if this part is not going to give me in the future major worries. But have to say: after 15 years with the coating on the outside, nothing seems to be rot.

I checked all the wood on the inside. All seems to be OK, except a tiny piece of wood supporting the floor boards, which feels soft, but this part is above the water, when there is water inside the hull, above the keel.

At the very bottom above the keel (deepest point) below the cabin floor boards, where usually some water is, also the wood still feels very hard, but some of the red-lead paint is peeling off and bare wood from the hull is exposed, so this part of the hull will be easily soaked with a combination of slightly salt water from the baltic (coming in during sailing via cockpit and freeboards) and fresh rain water.

Is this really going to be a main concern? Or what do I need to do?
Have to get the boat back on the land, scrape all the paint on the inside of the bottom of the hull just above the keel away, let it dry for a whole winter season and paint it next spring with red-lead paint, or apply an epoxy?

Or could I use the boat this summer season for sailing and tackle the issue after?

Or not to buy the boat at all?

here are all the images:

July2-2010


many thanks in advance for any advice!


Best regards,

Udo

Last edited by udoma; 07-18-2010 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 07-18-2010
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Until you are able to haul the boat and repaint the bilges, you could scatter some rock salt in the bilge in the areas where the water accumulates to increase it's saline level. This will help prevent rot spores that may be carried in from growing in the fresh water. Copper napthenate, found in fence post and wood deck [house] preservative , can also be brushed or sprayed with an orchard sprayer in these areas. It will kill spores on contact, penetrate the wood, and kill spores which end up there in the future.
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Old 07-18-2010
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Thanks! That came to my mind as well!

Boat is 50 years old, 15 years having the coating outisde, still not rot, so probably the boat is OK,
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Old 07-18-2010
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That is one beautiful boat my friend!
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Old 07-18-2010
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It surprises me that the cockpit is not self draining, especially since this boat was built prior to automatic bilge pumps.

There are few people that realize the work involved in repairing a wooden vessel. Fastenings need to be changes, rot needs to be found and repaired. A well cared for vessel is a good start but having a knowledgeable surveyor check it out would be a must.

I owned a wood boat 30 years ago that was built about when yours was and it was a lot of work back then.

Just be certain you understand what you are getting yourself into if you do this.

Gene
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Old 07-18-2010
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Every year I see in Sweden some nice wooden boats coming up for sale.

These were the one's I was looking at last year, but very often the outside cockpit is very small with these classic designs and this length of boat,
The first one is amazing, but the cockpit way to small for 2 adults and a child. Pity, otherwise I would have bought it last year.

http://dev.colourcertainty.co.uk/01I...oats/Tärneflu/
Koster01
Koster02
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Old 07-18-2010
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Thanks Gene, don't mind a bit of work for as long the boat it worth it.

Many people tell me to find an expert. If the expert would cost me 20% of the Purchase price, would it be worth it? That's a difficult question,

Udo
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Old 07-18-2010
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Gene, I will check again on the self draining issue of the cockpit, but indeed, surprises me as well, because the boat was advertised as sea worthy and for that you need self draining.

Udo
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Old 07-18-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by udoma View Post
Thanks Gene, don't mind a bit of work for as long the boat it worth it.

Many people tell me to find an expert. If the expert would cost me 20% of the Purchase price, would it be worth it? That's a difficult question,

Udo
That is difficult to answer as it depends on how much of an expert you are. If the cost of the boat is low and you have the time and abilities to work on it yourself then you will learn as you go. You don't really buy an old wooden boat, you adopt one. They should be given away to people who have the resources to restore and keep them alive because some are truly works of art.

Some people enjoy working on their boats more than actually sailing them. It can be a great hobby but you need to figure out if you are one of those people.

Gene
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Old 07-18-2010
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If you haven't already you should look up all posts by CharlieCobra. He restores wooden boats for a living.

Gene
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