Cored deck soft spot repair - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 81 Old 04-26-2011
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What is the story with Epoxy and Polyester? I did not think Polyester would bond to Epoxy. So say I have a fiberglass boat and I don't know if it is poly or Epoxy- do I use Epoxy to make sure it bonds?
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post #32 of 81 Old 04-26-2011
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Most boats were built out of poly with a bunch of secondary poly bonds and did petty good

BUT every piece of original poly secondary bonded bulkhead or other part i have repaired came apart to easy

Any of the original layup done in one piece is brick sh## house strong

So they will both work with the correct technique BUT i have found epoxy to have a lot more ability to be blended with different fillers and hardeners

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post #33 of 81 Old 04-26-2011
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Nice job you did and good writeup. Thanks for taking so many pics and posting them, like you say not many actually do this job so first hand experience is hard to get. Goodonya!

John
SV Laurie Anne

1988 Brewer 40 Pilothouse

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post #34 of 81 Old 04-27-2011
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Before Dan Pffeifer's PearsonInfo.net website went away, I copied many of the files pertaining to the Pearson 33-2. One group of files was a series of photos of the manufacture of the 33-2 including the deck that one of the original owners of a Pearson 33 had taken. I wish that I knew who had taken the photos because I would gladly credit them here.

Anyway, these pictures show how a BALSA cored deck is built. You can see that the balsa is cut into many 2" squares, and that is how Pearson was able to craft the decks into complex curves.

The deck was built upside down in the mold;

The guys in this picture are laying resin (polyester probably) into the gaps between the little squares of balsa...


The assembled deck curing; (or it was break time)


I believe that the next step would be to cover the entire structure with another, thin, coat of glass roving (or two) and wet it out.

Here is the headliner (built right side up)

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post #35 of 81 Old 04-27-2011
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Great pics!

Only thing I am wondering how they put the deck onto the inner liner and made sure that they have good lamination between them everywhere? There must be a trick to that. I epoxied a few square feet of a shell onto a substrate (a part of one half of a split rudder) and was concerned that I would have air inclusions. I buttered the heck out of both parts (meaning, onto both parts) and then put a lot of weight (bricks) onto the shelf but in the end I am still not 100% sure there is absolutely no cavity hidden. I can't imagine doing this with a whole DECK!
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post #36 of 81 Old 05-09-2011
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Hi
I just finished removing the rotted core out of the cockpit of my 1975 Tanzer 22. I am completely new to the world of fiberglass boat repair but I eventually got it done. It is rock solid now. Its an area roughtly 24 x 70 inches if I remember correctly.
I expect that I will be doing this in other spots as I discover more wet core.

I've documented what I did on my web site.
Christine DeMerchant Repairs the Wet floor of her Tanzer22

Christine DeMerchant Repairs the Wet floor of her Tanzer22

I took quite a low teck approach in removing the rotted plywood because the bottom layer was very fragile. Once stripped out the job went fast and rebuild was easier than I thought it would be.

I use MAS epoxy but any good system will work I expect. I like that it does not blush.

I'm not sure I worked terribly efficiently but I'm confident that my repair is solid and sound.
Have a look, and good luck.
Christine
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post #37 of 81 Old 05-09-2011
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Nicely documented, Christine! Looking at the work made my back ache a little though

Tom K

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Northern Chesapeake Bay

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post #38 of 81 Old 05-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf145 View Post
Nicely documented, Christine! Looking at the work made my back ache a little though
The back took a beating but what was much worse was the prickly fiberglass. I itched solidly for 3 weeks.

My boat club friends suggested a cold shower to dislodge the fiberglass, that seemed just plain sadistic.

What do other people do about fiberglass itch?

Tanzer 22,
hull 866
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post #39 of 81 Old 05-20-2011
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Cored deck spot repair

Over 10 years ago I was asked to repair a trawler with loose teak decking. When I took up the first section of teak, I discovered that the glass deck underneath was very spongy. The wood core was soaked and rotten, on the bow, stern, and both sides of the cabin. I carefully cut away the top layer of glass, removed all the rotted core, which was lauan plywood. I then filled the core area with good quality marine plywood, totally bedded in West epoxy, then bedded the top layer of glass back into place with epoxy. Once it was all cured, I was able to replace the teak decking. The owner kept the boat until a couple years ago, and as far as I know the deck was still solid. Except for fairly small areas, I believe that replacing the core is the best way to assure that the problem will not recurr.

Tom Kenat
The Ship's Carpenter
Medina, Ohio
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post #40 of 81 Old 05-20-2011
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Thanks Tom
Looks like you're right. There are lots of people offering drill and fill solution but no one is endorsing them (except people who sell it).
I will keep in mind that I will need to gradually open and fix the wood core areas.
Christine
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