Cored deck soft spot repair - Page 6 - SailNet Community
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post #51 of 81 Old 01-22-2012
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Thanks for the report back sync

Travlineazy I'd bet there is a stellar year ahead of you & the Admiral ...

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post #52 of 81 Old 01-22-2012
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Paul Calder is dong a rehab of a Cape Dory and recoring a good part of the deck as a result. Lots of details here:

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Having Nigel Calder as your father is probably really useful when going into a project like this.
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post #53 of 81 Old 01-22-2012
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Go to the West System website. go to projects. download the Fiberglass Boat & Repair and Maintenance manual (free) . It's the bible for this kind of work. chapter 5 deals with cored deck repair. also on the home page click on repairing your fiberglass boat and there's an article in the subject from there EpoxyWorks on line magazine

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post #54 of 81 Old 01-29-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RottenBilge View Post
I always found that this helped me when fixing my deck http://howtofixstuff.blogspot.com/20...ild-deck.htmll
The link doesn't seem to work.

Gary
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post #55 of 81 Old 06-07-2012
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

I recored 80% of the decks on my old A35. The main problem with production boats is that they often did not use enough resin to saturate the balsa. Water around chain plates is common and IMO unavoidable. There IS no sure way to keep water out and once in, it stays there essentially forever, finding bare wood and promoting rot. It's why I moved my chainplates outside after doing all that work to replace the rotted core.

A larger problem than the core, which is pretty easy to replace, is what the water may have done to the bulkheads below. I wound up replacing one large bulkhead that had turned to mush. Replacing bulkheads requires a some major surgery and a lot more skill to accomplish without doing too much damage. If anyone reading this gets into swapping a bulkhead , I have some valuable tips, just pm me.

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Last edited by smurphny; 06-07-2012 at 10:01 AM.
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post #56 of 81 Old 10-27-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

Looking for a little reinforcement!!! Working on a 1978 Catalina 27.

After a ton of research, I decided to go for the peel the skin option. As sync mentioned, I was able to make quick work of peeling back a 6-8 ft section using a dremel to cut a nice clean line in the skin. As suspected, the wood was soaked (due to years of window leaks & improperly bedded hardware). The good news - I was able to quickly scrape out the wood and clean the whole area. The bad news - is that there is only one sheet of fiberglass underneath the wood. The inner liner is quite thick, but that stops 2" short of the hull. This means that I only have a 30+ year old layer of brittle fiberglass mat for the length of the hull where the liner ends to the hull.

My plan was to cut away a 8ft length on the starboard & port side and let it dry out over the winter - then glass, laminate & glue the skin in the spring. I am worried about the structural integrity now if I cut away an 8ft length on each side and am thinking that I will need to do this in sections to make sure the integrity remains.

Plan A - clean out and dry out a section, add a layer or two of glass, then continue.

Plan B - try and add a layer of glass tape from underneath first, then cut away the rest. My concern with this is that I am glassing in the brittle sheet, need to glass upside down and in very tight quarters.

Plan C - Panic

I am going to post some photos shortly as soon as I figure out how to do that.

Would love to hear from any C27 owners who have taken on this project. I feel like I have most of the skills to do this job. My plan was to cut away, clean out, re-laminate ply and hire a professional glass person to do the final top layer glassing - either by putting the skin back down or by laying new mat. I was going to paint the top with quik grip so not concerned about the tread pattern.

Thoughts???
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post #57 of 81 Old 10-27-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair









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post #58 of 81 Old 10-27-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

Injecting epoxy or any other resin into a degraded and probably wet core does not accomplish much but a false sense of security. the deck may feel sound but what you really have is a free floating lump of epoxy that could not possible stick to wet degraded core.

If your deck is truly the structure to which your chain plates are backed then it must be made strong enough to take all the loads of your rigging..... bite the bullet and re-core.

Take a look at "Balsa = Compost" . If your deck is plywood the condition is worse than wet balsa.

PS. The acetone thing doesn't work. I pumped acetone into one spot for 3 years and when I finally decided to do it right and open her up she was sopping wet.

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post #59 of 81 Old 10-27-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

I am committed to doing a re-core. The wet wood I found in the first section confirmed that this is the only option. I just want to make sure I do a good job of it.

Thanks for the Balsa & Plywood posts!
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post #60 of 81 Old 10-27-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair



With the skin peeled



Cleaned up



The gap where the thin mat broke away.



You can see how thin the skin is.


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