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  #61  
Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

Yep, deja vu all over again!
I did a similar deck re-core on my boat this past spring.
2013, May 2nd. Re-core work party. | Odalisque

What new core material are you planning on using?
I do recommend the core material I used, polypropylene honeycomb core: honeycomb at Express Composites, Inc.
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  #62  
Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

I have just started addressing the soft spot in the back of my cockpit today. Probably water ingress from the rudder post.

I was going to do it from the top but decided to go from the bottom after I realized that my fiberglass is much thicker on the top than on the bottom. On my boat the bottom is a mere skin while the top is much thicker. I feel that cutting through that layer is much safer.

Something to consider

Last edited by flo617; 10-28-2013 at 11:38 AM.
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  #63  
Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

Gentlemen; Just passing on a thought! Awhile ago, I was looking at a larger boat, whose owner was actually present during her construction. When I inquired about soft decks, he explained that the deck core was constructed of 3" squares of wood, separated by a small gap, which filled with epoxy prior to the fiberglass upper layer. This prevented spreading of moisture in the core due to the numerous small epoxy "dams". Only the specific piece of wood could be affected! Clever! Comments! George
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Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

George, sounds like a good idea. However, if I were a boat builder, I think I would use the honeycomb fiberglass construction that is frequently used on the sterns of powerboats. It's extremely strong, lightweight, and you never have to worry about it absorbing moisture. The use of wood for a boat core, IMO, is archaic. When will sailboat builders get their heads out of the sands of tradition?

When I purchased my Morgan 33 O.I. it had moisture in an area of the cabin top core. I had it drilled and filled, and thus far, after three years, no moisture there. However, just this past summer, during a heavy rain, water began seeping into the cabin overhead and dripping through a hole over the quarter berth, soaking the cushion. I was able to dry the cushion OK, but thus far have not found the leak source. I found several toe rail screws that had not been sealed, and sealed them with 5200. Sometimes it can be difficult to find a leak source.

Gary
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Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

With the option of synthetic foam which doesn't rot, why would anyone use balsa in the first place?
It's almost guaranteed to give rot problems, eventually .
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Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair








Wet core is just like building a steel sailboat and THEN NOT SANDBLASTING and coating and then bitching steel sucks

ALL CORES will suffer from poor initial workmanship and lack of longterm care

It really does not matter if the foam does NOT ROT when it can be delaminated from water intrusion and freeze/thaw cycling
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Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

When I was doing the recore on my decks, I did a lot of research into the best core material and decided that traditional balsa was still the best material to use. As Tom has mentioned above, the common problem with balsa core is that it was never properly saturated to isolate the individual blocks. That is totally avoidable if it's done properly. I would be very hesitant to do all that work and then trust in the long-term adhesion of epoxy or polyester resin to a plastic honeycomb surface. Once balsa is sealed and saturated it forms an extremely solid surface on which to apply the fg.
Also, remember you need a 12:1 (or close to it) ratio on bevels, easily done with a grinder with a 60 grit sandpaper disk. Lay in the largest piece of glass first. West System has a good how-to page on this.
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Last edited by smurphny; 10-28-2013 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 10-29-2013
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfdubu View Post
Just out of coureosity, has anyone thought of or used the styrofoam insulation panels rather than plywood or balsa? My guess is it would be as strong as balsa, not so much with plywood. But it would never absorb any more water and would be much easier to form to the cavity.

I've made plug molds with it using west system epoxy so the chemicals shouldn't dissolve the panel.

John
Better than balsa, plywood or styrofoam (which has little strength in compression, and would therefore be a disaster), a friend of mine runs a company that produces MacroCore. This is the core material used by the US Navy for their new destroyer. It is a lightweight, epoxy based, high strength, closed cell syntactic foam which bonds well with epoxy based resins. Because it is epoxy based, MacroCore would not be affected by moisture. I used some in a small core repair that I did around a chainplate.

To learn more, see this link; MacroCore

They are not in the market for small boat repair, but if you contact me, I will make an inquiry on your behalf.

DISCLAIMER: I have no financial interest in this company or product. Merely passing on information about a little known option.
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Last edited by eherlihy; 10-29-2013 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 04-10-2014
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

Spring is here and it is time to lay the new core. Little nervous but I am committed now.

Leaking windows was the key culprit for the wet core and I am rebedding all of those. There was marine ply there and I wanted feedback on potentially using a spray foam to fill in the gaps and add some structure to that area. It is not a huge area and would be difficult to laminate new wood. Not impossible, but difficult.

Thoughts?
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Old 04-10-2014
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Re: Cored deck soft spot repair

I have a soft-core/delaminated foredeck. Rather than pull all the hardware. andcut the good, top lamination; I'm going to do it from the inside. The pla n iS to use the. infusion/bagged vacuum system. The way my deck is "hatboxed" and raised 6 "or so, here's . 2"+ gap between the turn from vert into the hriz deck.. A couplen layeres of 1708 biax mat tack glued to the undersside of the (cleare- from-garbage) deck, lined with 6 mil bldrsplastic with a few intake and one.vac exhaust .. A couple of gallons of laminating resin and turn on the vac!
Bingo!

That's the plan; and I'm (ahem) stick in' to it!
The side decks are another feat of. engineering entirely!
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