Install electric windlass

[orionatc]

I just acquired a used Ideal CWM horizontal electric windlass. It fits nicely on a plate attached over my bow sprit of my Westsail 32. It fits nicely between the staysail boom post and the Samson posts.

My question is should I use option 1 or 2 below or other to provide power.

Option 1 - Mount a battery dedicated to the windlass in the bow area. There is no ovious location. The battery can be a mosest size as it is only expected to operate for about 5 minutes when retriving the anchor. Will require fairly heavy wire from alternator to charge it.

Option 2- Power the windlass from existing house golf cart battery bank usiing separate switch and breaker. This will require heavy heavy battery cable for the approximately 50'' run of plus and minus cable.

Additional components needed for either option are the control switch and power solonoid.

The cost difference doesn''t seem too great between options at this point and probably not the biggest factor. I am lookinig for safety and ease of installation.

Thanks your for experience, ideas and opinions.

[GordMay]

You might also consider Option 3 - supply from starting battery.
Would not add a dedicated winch battery.
Regards,
Gord

[fourknots]

I think if you price the two wire sizes you''ll find that there is a big difference in price. But if you have to run cables anyway (bigger ones will be much harder, though) and you don''t care about price, run it from the ship''s battery.

[fer@fer]

Congratulations for your new horizontal electric windlass. I can imagine your wife is also very excited about, specially considering how nicely fits in the bow, even she couldn''t get her sun bath confortably as before. How sweet.

OK lets got back to work. Option 1 Mounting a dedicated battery in the bow area, will put some weight in the bow area where you don''t want more weight. ANd additinal dollars in other battery.

Option 2, which I support, will allow you to run your windlass either from golf bank or the starting one, or both. I do personally preffer powering the windlass with the starting battery, with the engine - alternator running too. On top of that, the latter one is an easier installation.

Foot switches and or remote control power the solenoids. And solenoids located near the windlass.

I am running a 1500watt windlass with a 30 square milimiter section cable.(I don''t know the equivalent American cable code)

[GordMay]

What ''fer'' said.
30 Sq. mm is roughly equivilent to #3 AWG cable.
Assuming a 100 Amp load @ 12VDC, you would begin to exceed 10% voltage drop @ < 70 circuit feet, that is pos. + neg. @ 35'' from source.
See the article "Ohm''s Law & Boats" in the March/April issue of "Good Old Boat Magazine"
Regards,
Gord

[sailorjim]

I mounted an Ideal Vertical Windles. I placed it on a Teak pad and installed 2 foot pads to raise and lower the anchor. I ran double ought (00) wire from the cockpit locker were I mounted the breaker panel, solinoid etc. I used regualr battery cble from breaker panel to a 4D battery. Worked fine but running the double 00 wire was a pain. When completed no wire visible inside the boat and a neat, trim job on the bow.

[jklewissf]

Some boat manufacturers set up the windlass circuit so that you can only operate it when the engine is running...That seems like a pretty good idea since it would keep you from accidentally running down your battery and being unable to start.

If you choose this option I''d use the starting battery to run the windlass.

I had the good fortune to have a friend suggest that I get the manufacturer to pull the wires when the boat was being built. I have 02 wires to the chain locker. That should be plenty to run my lighthouse windlass.