Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
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One thing that will help is putting a filter on each of the vent lines to the tanks. A majority of contaminants come in via the vent lines—mold spores, pollen, dust, etc., and adding a filter to the vent line eliminates most of this.
I'd also point out that if you are shock treating your water tanks, you really don't want or need to let the bleach sit in the tanks a few days as previously suggested. That is really unnecessary and really a bad idea if you have aluminum water tanks.
From Peggie Hall's instructions:
l Fill the water tank with a solution of 3/4 dl. of household bleach per 10 litre tank capacity.
Turn on every faucet on the boat (including a deck wash if you have one).
Allow the water to run until what’s coming out smells strongly of bleach.
Turn off the faucets, but leave system pressurised so the solution remains in the lines.
Let stand overnight - at least hours - but NO LONGER THAN 24 HOURS.
Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven’t done this in a while, it’s a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, ‘coz what’s likely to come out will clog them).
Fill the tank again with fresh water only
Drain again through every faucet on the boat, repeating till the water runs clean and smells and tastes clean.
Remember: cleaning out the tank addresses only the least of the problem ... most of the problem occurs in the lines, so it’s very important to leave the system pressurised while the bleach solution is in the tank to keep the solution in the lines too.
She also points out the necessity of keeping the water flowing through the system by using it regularly and frequently.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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