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post #1 of 7 Old 08-04-2010 Thread Starter
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Updating Costs for a 1978 Southern Cross 31

Looking for costs associated with replacing the following items. I would like both DYI costs and/or yard costs as I'll be deciding what to do myself and what to have a yard do.

1. Standing rigging replacement (not mast)
2. Caprail replacement
3. rewire
4. remove bottom paint, fare, and barrier coat.
5. Thru hulls

Also need recommendation for a boatyard in the Tampa/St Pete area that could do some/all of the work.

Thanks,

Bob

Southern Cross 31
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"If you are lucky to live by the sea, you are lucky enough"

Last edited by rjg23; 08-04-2010 at 01:44 PM.
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-04-2010
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Does standing rigging also mean mast replacement?

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post #3 of 7 Old 08-04-2010
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Depending on what you mean by the what you said, the quotes will vary considerably. I'd recommend you do as much of the work as you can, as the labor prices at most boat yards are running north of $85-100 PER HOUR. Finding a yard that allows you to do the work will be a problem in many areas.

Standing rigging is relatively simple to do. What I recommend is you drop the mast and take your rigging, assuming it is basically intact, and ship it to Riggingonly.com in Fairhaven, MA. They can make up replacement rigging for it based on what you send them. I would highly recommend you get the shrouds and stays a bit long and have the top terminals swaged and use Hayn HiMod mechanical fittings for the bottom and terminate them yourself.

As for the caprail replacement... that can vary a lot, depending on how it is fastened and what it is made of.

Re-wiring the boat is primarily labor... the material costs aren't all that expensive compared to the labor involved. I'd recommend buying the wiring, crimper, crimp terminals and such and doing it yourself. Maine Sail has an excellent tutorial page on Marine Wiring Termination that you should definitely read.

As for removing the bottom paint, one of the most cost-effective ways to do this is to have someone sodablast the boat. It is reasonably inexpensive to have done. Properly done, it leaves the surface ready for fairing, barrier coating and bottom painting. I'd point out that unless there are some really gross problems with the bottom's condition, fairing it isn't going to help all that much, since a Southern Cross 31 is not a fast boat, and no amount of fairing will help it much.

Barrier coating is pretty easy to do yourself. I wrote this post about using Interprotect 2000E to barrier coat, and alternating the colors to make it easier to do neatly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Alternating the colors helps a lot with determining where you've painted, but it is also very useful for helping you coat the areas around the boat stands. For instance:

The first layer is gray, since the gelcoat is white, and you can paint right up to the boat stand pads. Then you paint a layer of white, and leave about a two-inch margin of gray paint around the pads... then paint a layer a gray and leave a four-inch margin around the pads or about two-inches of white and two inches of gray showing...and then finish with a layer of white—with a six-inch margin around the pads—with two inches of gray, two inches of white and two inches of gray.

Then when you move the boat stands, you can fill in the pads and layer the paint accordingly... adding gray to cover the white square left by the pad.. then white to cover the gray square, and so on.

Also, by alternating colors, you can see if someone has sanded through the barrier coat when you're prepping the boat for re-painting. If there's an area that is gray or grayish, they've sanded through at least the outermost layer of barrier coat. If you had all white, you wouldn't be able to tell if they had sanded down through the barrier coat as easily—if you had all gray, you could tell they sanded through the barrier coat...but not if they've sanded into it...

I hope this helps clear things up a bit.
I would point out that if you're going to barrier coat, you'll probably want to "hot coat" the bottom paint to the barrier coating. This requires you apply the paint when the final layer of barrier coat has reached the "thumbprint" stage of cure. Use a different color for the first layer or two of bottom paint, especially if you're using an ablative, so that you can tell when the paint is wearing thin.

Maine Sail has an excellent tutorial on installing/replacing through-hulls.

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Originally Posted by rjg23 View Post
Looking for costs associated with replacing the following items. I would like both DYI costs and/or yard costs as I'll be deciding what to do myself and what to have a yard do.

1. Standing rigging replacement
2. Caprail replacement
3. rewire
4. remove bottom paint, fare, and barrier coat.
5. Thru hulls

Also need recommendation for a boatyard in the Tampa/St Pete area that could do some/all of the work.

Thanks,

Bob

Sailingdog

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post #4 of 7 Old 08-04-2010
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A ton of money and i am not being a smartazz

How much is hard to say as we dont no the scope of any of the work like the through hull quanity

It could be up to current standards or require major work with new backing plates to install one or require taking apart a good bit of the boat to reach it

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post #5 of 7 Old 08-04-2010
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I agree with dog about the rigging. It is not a hard job to do yourself if you start with slightly long stays and shrouds with the top end swaged. The Hayn HiMod are easy to use and better for the bottom end than swages.

Wiring is easy with the right tools and a bit of planning. The b*tch is the access. Sometimes a simple wire run can take hours depending what has to be removed to get at it. Those hours can really add up if you are getting it done prefessionally. Most of those paid hours are not for electrical ingenuity. The link dog posted is excellent and really all you need to do the job right.

Also on that link is the best through hull how-to I have ever seen, step by step with lots of pictures to guide you through all aspects of the job.
Compass Marine Project Articles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
The first 3 relate to through hulls.

Caprail? Depends greatly on what type.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour

Last edited by mitiempo; 08-04-2010 at 10:11 PM. Reason: add
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-04-2010
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There are a number of yards in St. Pete along Salt Creek that can give you an estimate for the work you need them to do versus what you can do yourself. Tampa yards offer the same.
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-04-2010
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Try using Angie's List, they are site dedicated to exactly what you're trying to do. But, if you don't want to go that route, I usually find Google Maps/Reviews are helpful.
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