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Old 08-10-2010
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O'Day stanchion manufacturer

Hey folks. Looking for a little help here. I have a 1986 O Day 31 and I need to replace two stanchions and their bases. They were damaged during a storm. The lines actually sheared the stanchion off the base. Anybody know who manufactured the stanchions and bases for O'day? The hull is not damaged and if I find the correct replacement, I won't have to do any drilling. Just bolt up the new ones. Anyone?

Much thanks,

Shawn
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Last edited by inthesprings; 08-10-2010 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 08-10-2010
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Have you contacted D&R, they carry a lot of O'Day items or may be able to trace them down, D & R Marine The parts list on the 31 page does show a "Stanchion Base Only" for $32
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Sweet, thanks!
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Old 08-10-2010
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Good luck with the repairs
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Old 08-10-2010
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Joe.. most likely your deck flexed badly when the Stanchions were broken and or bent. consider a backing plate, and pot the holes with epoxy before you replace them. Also Oday used gaskets under the base. you don't want to use 5200.
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Not me, this time, just helping InTheSprings find the parts, but you do bring up some good points for him to consider. Will agree, the repair may not be as simple as " I won't have to do any drilling. Just bolt up the new ones".
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Errr Shawn.. my bad sorry
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Old 08-10-2010
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use butyl tape to bed the stanchion bases and if you have access to the underside--add backing plates made of 3/8" garolite G10 fiberglass.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
use butyl tape to bed the stanchion bases and if you have access to the underside--add backing plates made of 3/8" garolite G10 fiberglass.
Butyl is good. But G10 is a bit of overkill for backing plates. True, it's good for the application, but it's also expensive and not easy to shape for the typical boat owner who might be limited to hand tools. Just use aluminum or epoxy coated plywood. Add fender washers for security that will be beyond what the builder probably originally used.
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G10 garolite can be cut with normal tools and doesn't have the galvanic corrosion issues aluminum can have with stainless steel fasteners or the water intrusion issues that plywood can have if the epoxy coating is damaged.

I'd point out that any backing plate should be firmly bedded in thickened epoxy if the surface isn't smooth and flat. The thickened epoxy allows the backing plate to properly spread the load against the cabintop. Also, it is probably a good idea to use fender washers to prevent point loading against most backing plates, especially plywood ones.

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Originally Posted by BigZ View Post
Butyl is good. But G10 is a bit of overkill for backing plates. True, it's good for the application, but it's also expensive and not easy to shape for the typical boat owner who might be limited to hand tools. Just use aluminum or epoxy coated plywood. Add fender washers for security that will be beyond what the builder probably originally used.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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