Hardware Nomenclature - Page 2 - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 21 Old 05-05-2011
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 51
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Why wouldn't it be acceptable to use a Dremmel to grind the head off the axle shaft, remove the sheeve and axle, replace with new sheeve and ss bolt, sleeve, and lock nut ??

Jurgy
Jurgy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 21 Old 05-05-2011
Senior Member
 
AdamLein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: SF Bay area
Posts: 1,917
Thanks: 5
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Why not thread an eyebolt into the sleeve and then shackle the new block onto the eye?

Frankly I'm surprised that it's so hard to find blocks with that attachment method... it seems pretty reasonable. It's basically how the casters on my desk chair are attached :P

edit: Rigrite has the exact blocks you need: Isomat Mast Base Turning Blocks

s/v Laelia - 1978 Pearson 365 ketch
s/v Essorant - 1972 Catalina 27
AdamLein is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #13 of 21 Old 05-05-2011 Thread Starter
Crealock 37
 
sailak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alaska
Posts: 600
Thanks: 17
Thanked 19 Times in 19 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamLein View Post
edit: Rigrite has the exact blocks you need: Isomat Mast Base Turning Blocks
IF I could get the sleeve out these blocks would work. To get the sleeve out I have to raise the collar.

So far I haven't found a block or any other device that works. I have an email into the tech folks at Rig Rite and hopefully they can help me out.

Dale

S/V Elnora
Pacific Seacraft "Crealock" 37 #312

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
sailak is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #14 of 21 Old 05-05-2011 Thread Starter
Crealock 37
 
sailak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alaska
Posts: 600
Thanks: 17
Thanked 19 Times in 19 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jurgy View Post
Why wouldn't it be acceptable to use a Dremmel to grind the head off the axle shaft, remove the sheeve and axle, replace with new sheeve and ss bolt, sleeve, and lock nut ??

Jurgy
That may be what I end up doing.

Dale

S/V Elnora
Pacific Seacraft "Crealock" 37 #312

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
sailak is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #15 of 21 Old 05-05-2011
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,534
Thanks: 104
Thanked 310 Times in 300 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
I'm assuming you can't turn the threaded stud out? (Looks like you tried a pipe wrench??) The design appears to be intended to allow the assembly to be taken apart where it is. Maybe someone used loctite on the lower threads?

If it was just a trapped sleeve as you suggest I wonder why they would use a hex nut instead of of a square head in the slot..... (kinda thinking out loud here)

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #16 of 21 Old 05-05-2011
Senior Member
 
AdamLein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: SF Bay area
Posts: 1,917
Thanks: 5
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Ah okay, I guess I didn't realize the trapped sleeve was the problem. Do you know how the sleeve is connected to the nut? Is there a threaded stud joining the two?

Anyway if you can get a new block, why couldn't it be threaded onto the existing sleeve?

s/v Laelia - 1978 Pearson 365 ketch
s/v Essorant - 1972 Catalina 27
AdamLein is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #17 of 21 Old 05-05-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,192
Thanks: 50
Thanked 38 Times in 37 Posts
Rep Power: 15
     
I think that if it were mine, I would probably try to save the original blocks by drilling out the rivet that holds the sheave and replace the sheave by using a nut and bolt. The hex head of the bolt and the nut can be thinned down by grinding and polishing and the difference will be hardly noticeable.

Then when the mast is next pulled and the collar can be removed you can replace the blocks if you wish.
knothead is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #18 of 21 Old 05-05-2011 Thread Starter
Crealock 37
 
sailak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alaska
Posts: 600
Thanks: 17
Thanked 19 Times in 19 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamLein View Post
Ah okay, I guess I didn't realize the trapped sleeve was the problem. Do you know how the sleeve is connected to the nut? Is there a threaded stud joining the two?
It appears the sleeve and nut are one piece.

Quote:
Anyway if you can get a new block, why couldn't it be threaded onto the existing sleeve?
I haven't been able to find a block with a M8 metric stud.

Dale

S/V Elnora
Pacific Seacraft "Crealock" 37 #312

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
sailak is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #19 of 21 Old 05-05-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 220
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
What about re-tapping the stud that is in there? Please understand that the fact that I'm suggesting this should in no way be taken as an indication that I know what I'm talking about ....
Plumbean is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #20 of 21 Old 05-05-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 888
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 8
 
I have a similar problem of broken sheaves, on triple blocks at the base of the mast. It's an old boat, I'm just going to grind off the heads of the axle rivets and replace the axles with shoulder bolts and nylok nuts, which are available in in inch and metric sizes. The sheaves are easy, lots of people sell them. In my case I can just stick a piece of plastic in the lathe and cut a whole new set in about 1/2 an hour.

Gary H. Lucas
GaryHLucas is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Headliner hardware covers GlacialEratic Gear & Maintenance 3 08-16-2010 09:23 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome