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cost of barrier coating

My surveyor strongly recommends barrier coating my new-to-me 1979 Gulfstar 37 to prevent blisters, since it has always spent winters out of the water and I'm going to be living aboard, so it will be in the water year round. Both he and my broker estimated it would cost between $3k and $3.5k to have the bottom stripped, barrier coated, and re-painted. I've had two yards give me estimates for the job, and both of them were about $7k! That's twice what I was expecting, and I'm not even sure if it includes repainting with new antifouling paint. The two yards were Marblehead Trading Co and FJ Dion's in Salem.

1) Are these prices reasonable? Is it really that much more expensive than I was told?
2) Does anyone know a yard in/near MA that would be cheaper and still do quality work?
3) I don't think I want to attempt to strip myself, but if I had the yard strip it and then barrier coated and painted myself, how much work would I be in for? Is this doable over a weekend or two? I have a day job...
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-08-2010
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I spent a bit over $2000 doing it all myself except the sand balsting...so $7000 to have someone do it seems about right? If I recall I was quoted about $150 per foot from the yard to do mine (also a 37' boat) several years ago.

See my post about barrier coating my boat: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/322678-post.html

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I would recommend you have the bottom sodablasted... it shouldn't be much more than $1200 or so... and then you can barrier coat and bottom paint the boat yourself, which is pretty simple to do.

As for whether it is doable over a couple of weekends... Yes, it probably is, if you have a couple helpers. If you're by yourself, it would probably bit a bit longer.

From another post I wrote on barrier coating:
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Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Alternating the colors helps a lot with determining where you've painted, but it is also very useful for helping you coat the areas around the boat stands. For instance:

The first layer is gray, since the gelcoat is white, and you can paint right up to the boat stand pads. Then you paint a layer of white, and leave about a two-inch margin of gray paint around the pads... then paint a layer a gray and leave a four-inch margin around the pads or about two-inches of white and two inches of gray showing...and then finish with a layer of white—with a six-inch margin around the pads—with two inches of gray, two inches of white and two inches of gray.

Then when you move the boat stands, you can fill in the pads and layer the paint accordingly... adding gray to cover the white square left by the pad.. then white to cover the gray square, and so on.

Also, by alternating colors, you can see if someone has sanded through the barrier coat when you're prepping the boat for re-painting. If there's an area that is gray or grayish, they've sanded through at least the outermost layer of barrier coat. If you had all white, you wouldn't be able to tell if they had sanded down through the barrier coat as easily—if you had all gray, you could tell they sanded through the barrier coat...but not if they've sanded into it...

I hope this helps clear things up a bit.
I'd point out that you will probably want to "hot-coat" the first layer of bottom paint to the barrier coating. That is done by applying the first layer of bottom paint to the Interprotect 2000E when it gets to the "thumbprint" stage of curing... where the coating takes a thumbprint impression but isn't sticky or tacky to the touch.

The cooler weather will work in your favor in some ways, since applying IP2KE during hot weather makes for a very short working time window, but it will take a little longer to cure.

The equipment you'll want to have include:
  • Rollers, roller covers, roller trays for applying barrier coat and bottom paint
  • 3M 1.5" blue painters tape.
  • Plastic containers for mixing barrier coating
  • Random orbital sander for touching up sodablasted bottom. No sodablasting job is every perfect. 80, 120, 220, 320 grit discs are the most commonly used for this type of work. Rigid makes a pretty good one with variable speed that is quite affordable.
  • Epoxy with cabosil/fumed colloidal silica for thickening for fairing any blisters/gouges in the hull's surface. I prefer using Progressive Epoxy Products of NH for my epoxy and supplies. epoxyproducts.com.
  • Full face respirator dust/vapor mask like a 3M series 6000 unit—these are far more protective and comfortable than a half mask/disposable mask and goggles.

For paint, you can go with a hard epoxy paint or an ablative. If you're planning on hauling out each winter, go with the ablative. Put the first coat or two on in a different color, so you can tell when you've worn through the other layers of ablative paint. Put an extra coat or two of ablative paint on the high-wear areas, like the waterline, leading edge of the keel, rudder, etc.

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Last edited by sailingdog; 09-08-2010 at 03:04 PM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-08-2010
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Barrier Coat

I have a Newport 33 that I stripped myself, Barrier Coated, and Painted. The worst part was stripping and sanding the hull. I think I had about 30 hrs into stripping / sanding the hull. The barrier coating and painting went well over a 3 day or so time period. For a 39 Foot Boat I would estimate you would need 7-8 gallons of barrier coat for 5 coats and 2 and 1/2 gallons bottom paint for the bottom. If you are trying to get done for this winter you wil also need to worry about the temps getting low art night. I think I would have someone scrape and prep it for paint and do the painting myself having stripped and prepared a 26 foot and 33 foot bottom. Maybe some out of work painters would be willing to scrape and prep for short money, just make sure they are carefull not to gouge the hull in the process. I can only scrape for an hour or so before I'm so sore I can't take it. Painters are used to that kind of work.
This may also be a project for next year in the spring when it may be warmer and you will have more time to learn and do more yourself.

Best of luck with your project.

Michael
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Another option would be to sodablast the boat this fall and then do the barrier-coating and painting in the spring...

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Another option would be to sodablast the boat this fall and then do the barrier-coating and painting in the spring...
That isn't really an option, is it?. I can't have it in the water without bottom paint! I'm going to be living aboard starting in October. There's someone scheduled to move into my current apartment then. I have maybe 2 weekends to get stuff done, and I'm sure I'll have to have some stuff done for the insurance to accept the boat, like I think I need to replace a couple shrouds...

Maybe I just won't barrier coat this winter and I'll have to spend a week or so couch surfing while it gets done (professionally?) next spring. Hopefully the bottom won't get wet this winter, in which case it would have to be hauled for weeks to dry...
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Oops... I forgot that you're going to be living aboard it this winter... Barrier coat it this fall then... makes much more sense than not doing so... You've got three weekends between now and October... It can easily be done in two, if you've got some good help.

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post #8 of 8 Old 09-08-2010
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If your surveyor and broker both told you barrier coating should cost $3-3.5K, then talk to the surveyor and broker and get a recommendation from them for a yard or crew- maybe they know sources you don't. if they can't offer a recommendation, then chew 'em out for talking out their asses.
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