Am I Finishing the Hull Correctly? - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 09-09-2010
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Am I Finishing the Hull Correctly?

I'm embarking on my first refit of my Ta Shing Baba 35' and need to know if I'm finishing the hull correctly. It has been stripped down to the fiberglass (picture included) because of blistering. I don't see much evidence of blistering now and the hull looks great to me (am I wrong?). What I am planning on doing is filling the tiny voids with straight epoxy (West System 105 & 205) and fairing the blister spots with West System 105 and 407 fairing compound. Sand smooth, add layer of epoxy and then lay 2 layers of fiberglass for extra strength and durability. Then 5 or 6 coats of epoxy and then antifouling paint. Is this the correct process?
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Old 09-09-2010
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You'll want a barrier coat between the new epoxy and the bottom paint. Frankly, if you have simply stripped the gelcoat, I don't see a need to add another 2 layers of fiberglass cloth- it seems like a lot of additional labour and cost for no additional benefit.
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Old 09-09-2010
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Mosture being in the substrate (hull) may be a problem, as you can see just moving the support shows how moisture gets in. I agree with Bljones but, if you do use a layer of glass it's imperitive you "wet out" then squeegee the excess off. Add additional coats of epoxy until the weave no longer shows. Never sand the cloth smooth. big job! I used to do it on strip canoes my son and built. small in comparison! Good luck. Have pictures of the whole boat?
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Old 09-09-2010
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First, you should be filling the voids with THICKENED EPOXY, not regular epoxy. Plain epoxy is a lousy filler material.

Second, 407 microballon fairing additive isn't really a good one for underwater use. It tends to absorb water, especially if you sand it and don't coat it with a skim coat of epoxy. Fumed silica or cabo-sil is a much better choice IMHO. Also, microballoon-thickened epoxy tends to sag and run more than cabosil thickened epoxy of the same viscosity in my experience. That makes it less useful for fairing or filling blisters.

If you're going to add something for durability, I would recommend adding a layer of KEVLAR and then a layer of fiberglass over it. Kevlar is far more puncture resistant than fiberglass and also far more abrasion resistant. It makes a hull far more damage resistant than adding just plain fiberglass. However, you need to add the fiberglass over the kevlar when laminating the kevlar, as it tends to float in the resin otherwise... and you will probably want to add two layers of fiberglass over the kevlar, since if you sand through the fiberglass into the kevlar, you'll really regret it... It doesn't sand at all well and merely abrades a bit...and makes the hull "fuzzy"... DAMHIK.

If you're going to coat with epoxy for "barrier coating", I'd recommend using MAS, System 3 or Progressive Epoxy Polymers resins rather than West Systems, as the former are no-blush epoxies IIRC, unlike West Systems. Some of them have additives to help improve the water impermeability of the epoxy resin which you may or may not want to use.

Don't forget to hot coat the first layer of bottom paint to the epoxy barrier coating. You can do this by applying the paint when the epoxy is cured to the point where it will take a thumbprint, but is no longer tacky or sticky to the touch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjsailingSpring View Post
I'm embarking on my first refit of my Ta Shing Baba 35' and need to know if I'm finishing the hull correctly. It has been stripped down to the fiberglass (picture included) because of blistering. I don't see much evidence of blistering now and the hull looks great to me (am I wrong?). What I am planning on doing is filling the tiny voids with straight epoxy (West System 105 & 205) and fairing the blister spots with West System 105 and 407 fairing compound. Sand smooth, add layer of epoxy and then lay 2 layers of fiberglass for extra strength and durability. Then 5 or 6 coats of epoxy and then antifouling paint. Is this the correct process?
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Old 09-09-2010
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That is what I was hoping to hear...that I don't need to add the layers of fiberglass. Thank you bljones, it makes sense. I was adding them because 1) the former owner i purchased her from recommended it 2) It does have small voids that would benefit from some extra strengthening. These voids are at obvious places such as the hull seems and I could just fiberglass over the seems, correct? (Another picture is below on what I mean). Or is this even not necessary?

Denise, yes, big job and I can't seem to find much about people fiberglassing the hull themselves on boats bigger than 23+ feet on the internet. I get the feeling its not a wise idea to do it myself, hence my post.

Sailingdog, thanks for the advice on the thickened epoxy and fairing compound. I do plan on using a barrier coat, not of epoxy, and I like your suggestion of the System 3 or MAS. In your opinion, does the kevlar and the fiberglassing need to be done? should it be done? What would you do?

Thanks much all and I appreciate your time!
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Please tell me that is NOT a major crack in your Encapsulated Keel???

You can glass large areas.. you just have to do it in sections and be sure the cured epoxy is sanded before you overlay with cloth and more epoxy. Most people are too inpataint to do it properly.. cloth needs 3-4 coats to fill the weave, and epoxy is dam hard to sand smooth so being good with a squeegee is important.
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Old 09-09-2010
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If that is a crack, rather than just a seam line... you may have a serious problem, especially if water has gotten into the encapsulated ballast. If the ballast is dry... I would highly recommend glassing over the seam to help seal it from water intrusion.
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It's not a crack, just a very visible seam that is the source of many voids and a seemingly poor laminate job from day 1. The ballast has been taken completely out, with the inside of the keel cleaned and inspected due to a void and water intrusion. I will be filling the ballast with 1700 lbs of lead and then epoxy filler. I think it's set then...I'll take both your advice and glass over the seem (patiently applying the appropriate # of coats). Other than that seem, I just don't see the need for glassing the entire hull.

Thank you!
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I wonder if there is something else to use instead epoxy to set the lead in. Epoxy gets extremely hot in large contained quantities! smoking hot! How did you get the old lead out? Had to be an interesting project.. no? 1700 lbs for a 35ft boat?? Sounds light!

when do we get to see the whole boat??
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Denise,

That is only the aft ballast. The previous owner already redid the main ballast. I have each piece of lead in 50 pound molded pieces. I was wondering about the heat problem too. If I gradually pour in the filler? Say 1/2 gallon at a time? Wait 2 hours, etc...? I know there is a type of foam one can use as filler but I want a very strong keel. I'll have to investigate this more. If you have any ideas or hear of anything, let me know and thank you!

Here are some pictures of my precious project:

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