questions about installing portholes - SailNet Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 Old 09-20-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 43
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
questions about installing portholes

I am about to finish painting and I had a couple of questions about getting my portholes back in. I remember reading several good threads on the subject here, but can't seem to find them now. So if these questions are answered somewhere else, please redirect me.

1. Should I sand or "rough up" the paint where the sealant will go? It's 2 part polyurethane paint and Dow 795 sealant.

2. I have plastic Beckson portholes and scraped all of the old sealant off, is there any other prep to do or just make sure they're clean?

3. Any tips on how not to make a huge mess of this project (as I am very skilled at making huge messes when it comes to caulk etc.!).

Thanks in advance.
Fitz87 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 09-20-2010
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 114
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Expect a few opinions regarding avoiding the mess, and here's what I've settled on as a good technique-

See if you can hold the porthole/whatever in place, and mask around it. Also mask the porthole/piece.

Once the porthole/whatever is installed, take a popsickle stick and go around the porthole with a popsickle stick to remove the sealant that squished out, wiping off the popsickle stick with a paper towel frequently. Then remove the masking tape before the sealant begins to harden.

I rebedded the deadlights on my Catalina using a kit from Catalina Direct, with enclosed instructions. There was no mention there of roughing up before rebedding...
donlofland is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 7 Old 09-20-2010
Senior Member
 
mitiempo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,488
Thanks: 0
Thanked 95 Times in 86 Posts
Rep Power: 8
   
I agree about the masking. Roughing the surface isn't required but absolute cleanliness is. Even your fingerprints can leave enough oil on the surface to affect the adhesive. Best to clean mating surfaces with alcohol and wear gloves.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
mitiempo is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 7 Old 09-20-2010
Senior Member
 
bruceyp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 118
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
bruceyp is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 7 Old 09-20-2010
Best Looking MALE Mod
 
Cruisingdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Washington State
Posts: 9,917
Thanks: 3
Thanked 123 Times in 57 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
You can also cut out the stuff after it has dried. I have done both. I think the masking first looks better, but that is my opinion.

Be aware that you have a 7 day cure on 795, and I would say about 24 hrs of no moisture. I would not take her sailing for a week after application. The flexing of the boat can cause it to fail.

Cleanup is with acetone. Be careful about acetone on the lexan... or whatever that stuff is made of. It will mar the plastic. I found that xylene does not (but check before you do it). I used acteone first, then Xylene. Xylene and toluene are good cleaners too, but very carcinogenic IMHO. You will need some type of special gove as most gloves disolve in them. It turned out better for me just to be really careful. Last caution is to make sure you keep her out of direct sunlight if possible. The heating of the plastic will make it warp very slightly and break the seal of the 795. I found this one out the hard way. I do not think it has to sit in in the shade all day... but the longer the better.

Sidenote is that I think you can also use alcohol to prep instead of acetone... but I keep so much acetone I used that.

Not a hard project, but working with 795 is like working with snot. Have fun and keep plenty of beer for afterwards.

Brian

Sailnet Moderator



1987 Tayana Vancouver 42, Credendo Vides, (Mom and Pops boat, F/T Mobile Live Aboards in Puget Sound)

My Website:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Follow My Blog at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Follow me on Facebook:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Cruisingdad is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 7 Old 09-20-2010 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 43
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Thanks very much to all of you for the advice. I'll let you know how it turns out. And thanks for the posting by Maine Sail, I had been trying to find that again.


Thanks again
Fitz
Fitz87 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 7 Old 09-27-2010
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 14
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
call us...use silproof, not in full sun & heat. Scrape all surfaces & wipe with alchohol. You should scribe a line of the hole from the inside, cut with a razor & remove the outside & paint w/flat blk paint - it will cover the sealant and give some nice bling. We use dbl foam tape to prevent the sealproof from going inside..and then fill in the outside with enough to make a nice dip-edge edge...MAKE sure to tape around both the exterior & interior of the port hole. It is 50% art, & 50% skillful science. Almost everyone who tries it....comes back & we go out to do it right.

Would you take you childs appendix out? Time to think if you can afford to go cheap. My friends says she is to poor to do things cheaply. My father asked me once:
What is the most expensive thing you can do?
Answer: buy or do something on the cheap. Just friendly advice.
Annapolisboater is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
CS 36T Portholes RocketScience CS Yachts 18 11-05-2009 07:16 AM
9.6 Portholes? timweiler Columbia & Coronado 1 06-03-2008 09:35 AM
Headliners, hatches, and portholes... merttan Sailboat Design and Construction 3 12-03-2007 10:33 PM
Refurbishing portholes smallyachts Gear & Maintenance 1 04-12-2007 01:27 PM
Leaking portholes dsprygada Gear & Maintenance 1 01-31-2005 05:31 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome