Sealant for Lexan/fiberglas/teak - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 26 Old 09-30-2010 Thread Starter
Courtney the Dancer
 
jrd22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: San Juan Islands., WA, USA
Posts: 3,885
Thanks: 4
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Rep Power: 15
 
Sealant for Lexan/fiberglas/teak

I'm re-sealing the pilothouse windows because the PO used the wrong stuff and they are leaking. The windows are 1/2" thick Lexan or Plexi (I was told they were Lexan but don't know how to tell for sure) and they fit into cutouts in the fiberglas side walls. They are held in by SS rings and on the inside are butted up against teak (the screws that hold the SS ring on go into the teak). Boatlife Seal will adhere to the Lexan/Plexi and the SS and the fiberglas but I'm not sure if it will make a watertight bond to the teak. Are there other products that might work better than BL Seal? I DON'T want to do this again. Thanks.

John
SV Laurie Anne

1988 Brewer 40 Pilothouse

jrd22 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 26 Old 09-30-2010
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,577
Thanks: 110
Thanked 321 Times in 306 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
John.. We've used the DC 795 with both screw-on and in-frame applications with good success. Just now I've had to remove a couple of lenses that cracked this year, and happy to say that these seals never leaked, and a very nice, soft "rubber" gasket-like layer was still easy to get off so I can redo them.

As far as the seal against the teak, won't the primary seal be between the lenses and the outer frame?.. still I think this stuff would work for you.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 26 Old 09-30-2010
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
Boatlife lifeseal is a polysulfide sealant that should bond to teak fairly well. It is fairly compatible with Polycarbonate or Acrylic and should bond to the stainless steel fairly well too.

The question I have is how much expansion room you need for the ports. How big are the ports?

Dow Corning 795 is a sealant that is specifically designed for bedding glazing materials, and would be my choice over boatlife lifeseal.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 26 Old 09-30-2010 Thread Starter
Courtney the Dancer
 
jrd22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: San Juan Islands., WA, USA
Posts: 3,885
Thanks: 4
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Rep Power: 15
 
Fast- you're right, the primary seal should be between the plastic and the fg, if that is good the seal against the teak shouldn't matter too much. I think the PO used 3M4200 or possibly 4000 to seal the plastic to the fg (which didn't work) and possibly BL Seal on the inside of the plastic up against the teak ( there is a clear sealant next to the teak and a white sealant everywhere else that is a very strong adhesive - peeled some gelcoat off with the SS ring). Where do you get the DC stuff?

Thanks SD.

John
SV Laurie Anne

1988 Brewer 40 Pilothouse


Last edited by jrd22; 09-30-2010 at 08:32 PM.
jrd22 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 26 Old 09-30-2010
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,577
Thanks: 110
Thanked 321 Times in 306 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd22 View Post
Where do you get the DC stuff?
I get DC 795 at a local wholesaler, Crossroads C&I nearby in Burnaby... bought 2 tubes today for $20 CDN. If you can't track it down I could pick some up and put it in the mail. Apparently you'll get 25 lineal feet of a 1/4 inch bead out of each 300ml tube (as a guide to how many you'll need)

Here's a link to a distributor search:
Find a Distributor

I found:


WASHINGTON LAKEWOOD
ATLAS SUPPLY INC
4425 100 ST SW BLDG 25 SUITE A
LAKEWOOD WASHINGTON 98499


WASHINGTON SEATTLE
ATLAS SUPPLY INC

TEL: +1 206 623 4697

611 SOUTH CHARLESTOWN STREET
SEATTLE WASHINGTON 98108

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)

Last edited by Faster; 09-30-2010 at 09:04 PM.
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 26 Old 09-30-2010 Thread Starter
Courtney the Dancer
 
jrd22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: San Juan Islands., WA, USA
Posts: 3,885
Thanks: 4
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Rep Power: 15
 
Thanks Ron, I'll give them a call. Do you think using butyl against the teak and the 795 to make the seal between the SS/Lexan/fiberglas would make sense? It sure would make the clean up on the inside around the teak easy.

SD- the windows are approx. 16"X32" ea.

John
SV Laurie Anne

1988 Brewer 40 Pilothouse

jrd22 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 26 Old 09-30-2010
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,577
Thanks: 110
Thanked 321 Times in 306 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd22 View Post
... Do you think using butyl against the teak and the 795 to make the seal between the SS/Lexan/fiberglas would make sense? It sure would make the clean up on the inside around the teak easy.
.
Should work and you're right about the cleanup.... another trick I use is to dry-fit the panes and mark the inside perimeter. With new acrylic I leave the backing on except where it mates to the sides, with old ones you could mask it and the inside of the inner frame leaving just enough space to form a fillet of any sealant that squishes out there. But using butyl inside might work.... however.... it occurs to me that a tight inner seal might hide an outer leak until too much damage was done by trapped moisture????

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 26 Old 09-30-2010
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
Sounds like a good plan. But Faster makes a good point about hiding a leak. However, if there is no exposed core, then that is less of an issue.

A 32" piece of plexiglass/acrylic will expand about .013" per 10˚ F or so. Given the temperature range in your neck of the woods, and making allowances for heating due to sunlight during the day, you're probably looking at a bit over an 100˚ temperature range, or a bit more... so say ±.125" overall for each port—assuming that you're installing the ports at a reasonable temperature—so having 0.0625" on each side for expansion should probably cover you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd22 View Post
Thanks Ron, I'll give them a call. Do you think using butyl against the teak and the 795 to make the seal between the SS/Lexan/fiberglas would make sense? It sure would make the clean up on the inside around the teak easy.

SD- the windows are approx. 16"X32" ea.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 26 Old 09-30-2010
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,577
Thanks: 110
Thanked 321 Times in 306 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Do the screws go through the ports, or just through the frames? If they go through the ports too they should be drilled rather seriously oversized to allow for SD's expansion quotient..... but if they've been fine so far you're probably OK..

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 26 Old 09-30-2010 Thread Starter
Courtney the Dancer
 
jrd22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: San Juan Islands., WA, USA
Posts: 3,885
Thanks: 4
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Rep Power: 15
 
Thanks SD, the screws do not go through the plastic and there is about 1/16" to 1/8" between the windows and fg so I should be OK. I'm going to call the outfit Faster found in the morning to see if they stock the 795.
Ron- thanks for the tip about the tape on the inside, that should make cleanup a lot easier.

John
SV Laurie Anne

1988 Brewer 40 Pilothouse

jrd22 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fiberglas hull TLC jetdrvr393 Gear & Maintenance 4 09-29-2009 12:38 AM
Sealant for bedding steel hardware on teak rail? josrulz Gear & Maintenance 3 06-05-2009 04:06 PM
plexiglass or lexan prussell Gear & Maintenance 1 04-23-2004 01:17 AM
plexiglass or lexan prussell Gear & Maintenance 2 04-22-2004 07:59 PM
lexan maestro Gear & Maintenance 4 02-19-2004 08:45 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome