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  #1  
Old 10-03-2010
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Drinking Water Filter Install Help.

This week I'm working on installing new hoses and water filter for my boat (3M BS1 whole vehicle filter). The current configuration has the filter installed after the manifold for selecting water tanks, but before the t-fitting for the pressure water pump and foot pumps. Each of these pumps supply water to different faucets on each of the three sinks.

Here is a photo of the sink setup (doesn't show the Whale foot pump).


Now to the question... How do I install the filter after the pressure pump, but still have filtered water coming out of the faucets for the foot pumps? Or do I not worry about the pressure water pump (not used much) and just leave the system as is with the water filter before the pressure pump and all three foot pumps?

It's one of these pumps:

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Old 10-04-2010
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Gooday Mate,
I dont know about that filter. The few that I am aware of, need pressure to force through the small micron apertures in the filter. In which case the foot pump is useless. Other filters are for course materials and thus better suited to 'non-pressure' pumps.

This may answer your question as to whether to run the filter in line with the pressure or foot pumps.

If this does not help, then inline just after the tank selection.

Lovely boat
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Old 10-04-2010
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For pressure filtration you'll need a separate filter on the foot pump line.

Im somewhat a 'filter expert' and I pose the question/comment: why do you want to put a filter on your boat system when its infinitely easier and more efficient to 'filter' the dockwater (filter(s) on the hose that you fill the tank) and thus avoid or minimize the particulate that *enters the tank*? Why allow particulate into the tank only to filter it when it comes out the spiggot, etc.?

If you remove such particulate (and some level/amount of microorganisms) in a 'dock hose filter' and remove the 'organics' with a secondary 'carbon packed' filter BEFORE it goes into a clean and well maintained tankage (& occasionally adding the proper amount of clorox for 'bio-control'), then there is little need to put a filter IN the system.
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Old 10-04-2010
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You need a sediment filter before the electric pump and a fine--preferably charcoal--filter after the pump but before the line splits to feed the hot water heater (if installed) and the manifold from which cold water is piped to the various fixtures. We also have a separate Seagull filter under the sink for drinking/cooking water that is fed from a Y-valve that can connect to either the pressuized water system or the foot-pump. (Generally we use the foot pump off-shore as a means of minimizing water use.)

FWIW...
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Last edited by svHyLyte; 10-04-2010 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Correct typo
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Old 10-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichH View Post
why do you want to put a filter on your boat system when its infinitely easier and more efficient to 'filter' the dockwater (filter(s) on the hose that you fill the tank) and thus avoid or minimize the particulate that *enters the tank*? Why allow particulate into the tank only to filter it when it comes out the spiggot, etc.?
Paranoia. We are trying to prepare the boat for cruising and will be filling with rain and jerry canned water from unknown sources. I'll be filtering the jerry canned water via a transfer pump for water down to about 5 microns, but would also like something filtering the water after it's been in the tank.

I don't want to end-up like this guy , but out the other end!
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Old 10-04-2010
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We use an end-of-faucet Brita filter... it's switchable and also provides a spray setting when not filtering.. We like it because it means you're only filtering water that you're going to drink... tea/coffee etc.. and don't bother filtering water for dishes etc.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by funjohnson View Post
Paranoia. We are trying to prepare the boat for cruising and will be filling with rain and jerry canned water from unknown sources. I'll be filtering the jerry canned water via a transfer pump for water down to about 5 microns, but would also like something filtering the water after it's been in the tank.

I don't want to end-up like this guy , but out the other end!
Thats an entirely different situation than filling from a domestic supply.... and its still a relatively poor choice. 1,0ÁM or better 2,0ÁM--->0,45ÁM ("absolute" or 100% filtration rather than a 'nominal' or arbitrary ÁM rating) is the usual standard for filtration from 'unknown' sources. Biologic contamination is best satisfied by filtration before it enters the tank, where it 'multiplies'. A filtration system within a distribution system is a 'microbiologic concentrator'.

BTW - enjoy your waterborne illnesses.

Last edited by RichH; 10-04-2010 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 10-04-2010
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Rich,

What do you think about switching pre-fill filter (current 5 micron) to one of these?

WaterAnywhere

or this?

WaterAnywhere 01-250-125-975 - KX Filters - KX MATRIKX +1 Extruded Activated Carbon Filters b


Will that help keep everything clean? The 3M unit I purchased does filter down to .5 aswell... I'll install it after the pump just for my own piece of mind.
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I've used the KX line of extruded carbon filters for many years in 'technical' and biological filtration applications. Good products.

I currently have a KX carbon 'prefilter' for my boat system .... for attachment to a dock hose and my 1,0ÁM 'absolute' cyst filter .... for tank filling.

KX are well made, they are standard 'industrial' configuration 2.5"ě X 10" (for 9-3/4" filters use 2pcs. - 1/4" gaskets on each end of the filter for use in a 10" housing) - important so you are not committed to use an expensive 'proprietary configuration' filter from solely one supplier, etc.
To get the best adsorption results (from any carbon packed filter) you should flow the water through carbon filters 'as slow as possible' as adsorption is dependent on 'dwell time' inside the filter media. I recommend that carbon filters NOT be placed IN a boats water distribution system ... 1. removes the needed chlorine from the system water (even when there is no water flowing); 2. the carbon is a nutrient source for many microorganisms. I recommend that you use them on the 'charging hose' delivering into a 'clean and sanitized' tankage.
The downside .... the micron rating is 'nominal' or arbitrary so that 5ÁM can theoretically pass ~50ÁM particles and you should have a 'more accurate' filter immediately downstream. For precise filtration, especially to exclude dangerous and chlorine resistant 'cysts', etc. you need a filter that is 'rated' for: 1,2ÁM 'absolute' or 1,2ÁM 99% or "FDA/NSF rated for oocyst removal', etc.

Before I installed a RO system and used to catch water, use 'cistern water', or water from 'unknown' ... I had a 5 gallon 'pre-tank' that was easily fillable. I pressure filtered from the 'pre-tank' to the 'main-tank' via a 2ÁM (97%) to 0,45ÁM 100% filter .... all before it went into the 'main tank'.

-----
Water in the 'de islands' either comes from RO (best and 'usually' safe) or cisterns of collected rain water (worst) ... the cisterns are usually 'open to the atmosphere' (and sometimes stupid 'cruisers' sneak in to these cisterns 'to soak and relax'). In Central and South America, Mexico, etc. the water from remote places can be downright dangerous --- flukes, oocysts, parasites, bacteria, etc. etc. etc.; and, these should NEVER get into your tankage where they can multiply. The low life expectancy in the 'third world' is because of 'bad and contaminated water'.

Simple measures for healthy water on a boat: Filter the water BEFORE it gets into a CLEAN and sanitized tank. If the water tastes like sh!t coming from the tank and tubing, it means there is sh!t IN the tank. ALL components of the tank and delivery system MUST be certified to NSF or FDA for use in 'potable water' to prevent drinking harmful 'leachables'.

Oh yes, consider to put a filter on the tank's VENT to prevent aspiration of airborne FUNGUS, MILDEW, etc. from getting into the tank. The simplest means is to take a fist sized wad of 'bandage cotton', cover it with bandage gauze, keep it DRY and change once yearly; OR, install a hydrophobic PTFE 0,2ÁM(100%) capsule type filter ... about $90.00 from a source that supplies to the bio-pharm industry.

"Will that help keep everything clean? The 3M unit I purchased does filter down to .5 aswell... I'll install it after the pump just for my own piece of mind."
Absolutely not.... a 0.5ÁM filter without 'certs' of removal efficiency most probably will be a 5.0+ÁM on an absolute or 99+% removal basis.
To keep a system 'clean' .... You have to get inside a water system every now and then mechanically scrub the built up bacterial colonies, etc. off the walls, followed by shock sanitization with clorox, etc. followed by regular and proper chlorination levels to keep the micro-biology from growing.

Last edited by RichH; 10-04-2010 at 05:13 PM.
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