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post #1 of 8 Old 10-16-2010 Thread Starter
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Loose Toe Rail Tartan 27

My friends 1965 Tartan's toe rail is coming loose along the bow. I can feel the screw heads along the edge where the hull is joined to the deck, and can see the old screws where they must have ground them off and then varnished the rail.
I don't want to drill more holes is it a good idea to dig /drill out the old screws then plug from the top and re drill? Thinking of making a hole saw out of tubing (saw on wooden boat forum) and then plug. On this old boat at least I don't have to squeeze into the bow. Any ideas? Hope someone here responds I Boats didn't
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post #2 of 8 Old 10-16-2010
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It would be a good idea to fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and then re-drill new holes for new brass wood screws.
As you probably already know the hull/deck joint flanges outward, away from the boat making an approximately 1-1/2" lip all around the boat. This flange is what the screws that hold the toe rail to the boat go into. Old holes allow places for water to get into the laminate so it is a good idea to fill them. It is a good idea to use a bedding compound (like Butyl tape) around each screw hole as well.
We did a bunch of toe rail work on our T27 this spring. You will want to have a #8 countersink handy as well as some new #8 3/4" & 1-1/4" screws. The 3/4" screws hold the top piece down on the flange, the 1-1/4" screws are good for holding the outer (vertical) piece snug with the top piece.
We replace the outer piece on our stern this spring among others (as seen in pic).
There is also a yahoo group for T27 sailboats called T27Owners with lots of pics of these boats.
Is your friends boat called "Calipygian" by any chance?
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-16-2010 Thread Starter
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Blueberry out of Westbrook

The side rail is still attached to the toe rail and only about 2' is loose from the bow aft on Port side, so it's hard to get at what's left of the screw heads with a visegrip or the like, we are getting ready tomorrow to have her hauled. I figure it's easier to do this on the hard than in a dingy, and you know how the sea gods love tools and loose hardware. That's why I thought to use the tubing as a cutter and plug less holes the better
Sweet little rig the T27
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-16-2010
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Yes, sweet little old rig.

If it is just a 2' section that is loose and not an entire board it is going to be difficult to get at and fill the old holes unless you plan on removing the entire piece and refasten it.
The easy way out (read lazy mans way) of this would be to simply use your countersink and drill a few new screw holes. You will need teak bungs to cover the screw holes.

This is easier to do while on the hard but not impossible in a slip either. I haven't tried it at a mooring yet.

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post #5 of 8 Old 10-16-2010
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You don't ever want to use brass screws on the exterior of a boat. You want to use SILICON BRONZE screws...

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post #6 of 8 Old 10-16-2010
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#8 Silicon Bronze Wood Screws Frearson Flat Head

Thanks SD, guess I'll have some screwing around in my future...

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post #7 of 8 Old 10-16-2010
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Nothing to contribute, but I recently looked at a '64 T-27 as a possible purchase. They look like very tough boats and very attractive when cleaned up.

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post #8 of 8 Old 10-16-2010
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Thanks BubbleheadMd.
The T-27 is a head turner if it is fixed up. It would also be a good Chesapeake boat because of the center board and the low draft of 3'6" with the board up.
We've been doing some PHRF racing with our T-27 and have actually done surprisingly well.

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