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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 01-04-2012
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I have been battling with the same issues and was afraid to do something that would muck up the boat. Your post is spot on. Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
I have restored ones that looked just like that to near new condition provided there was no dezincification. It is rare that I have seen deszincification on a true 85 three 5 bronze. Verdigris yes, dezincification very rarely...
Maine Sail, if you happen to see this, how did you free up the stuck valves? I have some in the head area of an older boat I purchased last fall.
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Originally Posted by skygazer View Post
Maine Sail, if you happen to see this, how did you free up the stuck valves? I have some in the head area of an older boat I purchased last fall.

Loosen the cone adjusting nuts and tap them lightly with a soft lead hamemr or soft brass hammer. Do not it too hard, you don't need to, and the cone will pop free. A little PB Blaster in there won't hurt either.

Feel free to read this:

Servicing Tapered Cone Seacocks
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Those little bumps on the inside of the inlet take the bite of a steel bar inserted into the threaded thru hull. A 36 inch pipe wrench on that and it unscrews tout suite.The two screws keep the seacock from turning. Then remove them. The barrels of those seacocks can be lapped in situe with "lapping compound" and greased to last until about 2045.They are probably gun metal (mostly copper with tin. cannon material) Navel bronze types have a lot of zinc and some arsenic to stabilize it Good quality bronze with SS ball ball valves and polyethylene or nylon seals are the norm today. They require really good backplates to support the thruhull part.(on another thread) Longer lever, bigger hammer.Works on old fishboats.

Last edited by Capt Len; 01-07-2012 at 02:08 PM.
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Thanks for your responses, guys. I've not seen the insides of the valves, so I'm a bit unclear about the application of your knowledge, but the worst that can happen is I destroy the valves. Boat is on a trailer in the backyard, so no big deal.

It's zero F. weather so nothing will be happening for awhile.

Edit: Upon reflection, I do happen to have a 36 inch pipe wrench. And, a 48 inch one just in case. :-)

Last edited by skygazer; 01-04-2012 at 10:06 PM.
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Re: Removing old/corroded seacocks

Perfect!!! I have a very similar problem and the seacocks you picture appear to be identical to the ones I have on my Downeaster 32. Although my seacocks are still operable, the threaded street L on the output side of the head is not a proper hose barb and has an outside diameter that is slightly too big for the 1 1/2" hose. The whole thing is generally so corroded that I am replacing the vintage seacocks with new modern ones while I am hauled out for other repairs. Great sequence of pics and procedures. Thanks
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Old 03-24-2013
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Re: Removing old/corroded seacocks

I just pulled two seacocks out of my boat this weekend. I used a wrench thru hull mall. it fits from 0.75" to 1.5" thru hulls. Just line up the grooves with the tangs on the inside fo the thru hull, along with a 12-inch cresent wrench and two foot pipe2 inch inside dia.) for leverage, turn to the left since lefty loosey and came right out. The thru hulls are the old wilcox crittenden and original to the 34 year old boat.
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