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post #1 of 13 Old 11-24-2010 Thread Starter
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Painting Mast with Perfection

I will be painting my mast with Interlux Perfection, I will be leaving most of the original powder coat in place because it is fine, there will be some bare spots where halyards were slapping the mast and corosion around fittings.

The whole process makes sense and is reasonable with the exception of the surface primer for the bare aluminum. Interlux says to use thier Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned with #355 thinner (it always needs to be thinned with 355, can't figure out why they just dont sell it already thinned.) I don't have a problem with doing this step, I have a problem with paying for it, these two products cost more than all the other products for the job combined! Other places I search say to surface prime aluminum with zinc chromate primer, right out of a spray can, that costs like $10.

Anyone have experience with this? I don't want to mess this up, but to touch up a few bare spots before the rest of the epoxy primer and topcoat this seems excessive.
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-24-2010
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I'l love to paint my mast black I know it's wrong and bad.. but it's just something I like. I've seen a few black masts like them.

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-24-2010
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USE the Viny-Lux and 355. .... or you will/may eventually have to 'redo' the mast due to loss of adhesion. I did this 'twice', the second time was with the proper thinner + Primewash.

For a 'perfect' spray-quality job with Perfection ... do websearch for Don Casey's method of arriving at the 'perfect' amount of thinner vs. paint ratio (needed to 'match' for daily variability of temperature and variable relative humidity) and using a flat GLASS PLATE for 'testing' of the 'flow out' to verify the % amount .... for an absolutely perfect (spray-job look alike) job.

:-)
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-25-2010
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Step one then you ONLY have 24 hours




Step two twice with careful sanding



Step three the fun begins as the instructions become a guessing game of thinning and dry time before wet sanding



And for fun they make lids that will not come OFF

The different mixing ratios of the paints 2:1 3:1 is also entertaining





Some lab glass and syringes makes mixing much more repeatable




And they should have all the recalled paint back BUT i still see a LOT of old cans out there i have the big stack because the local rep bought down a bunch of different lots to test for the problem (2008)



And a lot of sandpaper if you want to look like this as if you take any shortcuts you may as well use hardware store paint



As a final note the stuff is ferocious and even mixing takes full safety precautions

I gotta cook right now BUT its a bit harder than that and you will need BOTH primers

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

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Last edited by tommays; 11-25-2010 at 08:30 AM.
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-25-2010
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I whole heartedly agree with Tommays. I painted my mast with Perfection, and 3 years later there's not a nick in it. I sprayed my mast and I used flattening agent to give it a matt look. Follow the directions to the letter and you'll have good results. I sandblasted my mast and you only have about an hour to get the first primer on before corrosion starts. Once the epoxy primekote goes on you can relax a bit.

Because I sprayed mine and used flattening agent, I didn't have to worry about sanding between coats. The finish was going to be flat anyway.

See the mask Tommays is wearing? Buy one at least that good. If you're going to spray, make sure the mask has a perfect seal, spray in a well ventilated area, and as soon as you spray - leave. That stuff WILL KILL YOU.

Tommays, Nice finish on that mast. Looks great.


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post #6 of 13 Old 11-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys

Tommays, I will be driving through your town today on my way to Oyster Bay, been cookin too this morning. Would love to see your mast and talk to you about it (not today) sometime.

How do I know I am not getting paint from a bad lot?

Charlie
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-25-2010
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A quick note about using syringes for mixing. The Interlux rep told me he's seen problems with silicone grease used in syringes for ease of assembly at the factory. That silicone needs to be cleaned out (not just clean but perfectly clean) with thinner before use or you will get fisheyes.


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post #8 of 13 Old 11-26-2010
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Anyone tried Brightsides for this? I am planning only on doing my spreaders and I have a can of brightsides on hand already as well as 216 special thinner, 355 thinner and maybe even some 202 solvent wash sitting around. Can never have too much of this stuff.

Mike

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post #9 of 13 Old 11-26-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
I'l love to paint my mast black I know it's wrong and bad.. but it's just something I like. I've seen a few black masts like them.
Why is that wrong/bad? I never thought of that color for my mast but now that you've mentioned it that's a look I could definitely go for..

s/v Tinou
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Hull #37

I can't imagine mastering the skills involved here without a clearer understanding of who's going to be impressed.
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-26-2010
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One problem with a black spar is that it will heat up pretty seriously. Something to consider if you're planning on sailing in southern waters.

Sailingdog

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