single line reefing?

[jbarros]

ok, this seems like a realy good idea. What are the downsides?

Thanks.

-- James

[Denr]

A few years ago I re-rigged my reefing lines in a single line configuration (meaning a single line to make up the new tack and clue), I changed them back to the original set up shortly thereafter, which means that I have to manually put the first and second reef cringle tack on to the goose neck horn. The new clue (for first and second reef) can be made up from the cockpit, it runs through the boom to a clutch and winch.

I changed it back because there was such a huge wad of sailcloth at the luff of the sail (especially when the second reef was in) and there was tremendous line chafe and friction on the sail at that point. I wish I would have tried blocks at the reef points at the luff to determine if that had any affect on the friction.

The sail shape is much better now than what it was with the single line setup. This was a better solution for me.

[tsenator]

Wow Denr, a thoughtful, insightful and informative post, devoid of smart "alecky" remarks and denigrations. I am amazed, good for you.

I tend to agree, I have a single line system and not 100% satisfied. But I have to admit the ability to put a reef in without leaving the cockpit is a wonderful thing, especially when single handling a boat. I have thought about a double line system brought back to the cockpit (one at clew and one the tack) But with two reef points that would mean two extra lines to route back to the cockpit with the attending clutches, etc, etc.

But at this point the convenience of never leaving the cockpit to reef far outweighs the negatives and stringing more lines might be a hassle.

I have seriously thought about putting blocks on the reef tacks, but I''m not sure what type and not sure how well they will work. But they have to help for the friction and hopefully if they are rigged and placed well they will reduce the wear and friction of the reef lines are now causing on my reefed mainsail.


Anybody done this? Any advise or pictures. I was looking at using these blocks

http://harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/scpdinw1.ShowProd?409Z56LC47D1A

with hi-tech line attachment -- they are Harken Carbo Air Blocks

[geohan]

Tsenator: We gave up the tack hook type of reefing on our 280 sf main many years ago as it was too difficult to make up while the main was flogging even slightly. We now employ a 4 part tackle. One end is dead ended below and forward of the gooseneck on the port side of the mast. The lead is then routed up to a single block at the reef tack, down the port side to a turning block at the mast base, and up the stbd side to a single block at the tack then down to a stbd side cleat below and forward of the gooseneck. The ends must lead forward as well as down to counter the tension along the foot. The single blocks on each side of the tack are joined by a 1/4 inch SS rod connector in the shape of a U with an eye at the end of each leg. The port side eye captures the bail of the single block while the stbd side eye is just open enough for the bail of its single block to be slipped out. It is very easy for my 75 year old wife to remove the block connector from the Cunningham cringle and transfer it to the reef tack before the sheets and halyard are eased. If you mark the halyard for it''s reefed position and cleat it, the reefing tackle will pull the tack home and secure it. This has worked well for us. Regards, George

[tsenator]

Sounds interesting, but I''m still trying to picture the set-up (its been a long week).

Do you have any manufacturers part #''s or pictures of the stainless steel rod connector shaped like a U? What size and type of blocks do you use? Even better do you have pictures of the set up?

Correct me if I''m wrong, ''you still have to go forward to the mast to tighten and adjust the tack of your reef''? And am I to understand that this set-up is the same that is being used as a cunningham adjuster?

[Jeff_H]

There are three main downsides to the single-line reefing systems that I have encountered: 1) a lot of friction, 2)having to overhaul a huge amount of line and 3) Not being able to adjust the clew independent of the tack. I really like slab reefing systems but prefer a two line reefing system as they tend to be quicker, and easier to tie in, more reliable, and allow you power up the reefed mainsail or blade it out depending on point of sail.

Jeff

[Jeff_H]

Sorry, I missed the prior response to this question and so repeated a lot of what had already been said.

It sounds like I use a similar rig to George''s set up except that the rig that I have used for the tack has a line rigged through each reef tack cringle. As a single-hander I leave these rigged full time. The reef tack lines on my boats originate at the base of the mast, pass through a shackle at the gooseneck that keeps the dumb end of the line near the boom. The line then passes between the first slug and the boom and then back between the mast and the luff of the sail above the slug that is below the reefpoint in question. (On my current boat I have rigged a ''dogbone'' using ''D'' rings and webbing so the reef line does not have to pass between the mast and the luff of the sail above the slug that is below the reefpoint) It then passes through the reef cringle and then down to a block at the base of the mast which leads it aft to a line stopper (or camcleat on my earlier smaller boats) The halyard is marked for the proper reef point. To reef I ease the halyard to the mark, pull in the reef tackline, ease the vang, and then pull in the reef clew line. On my 38 footer this is less than a 30 second job and can be done on all points of sail and on the fly without leaving the cockpit. When I rework my deck plan next winter, I still need to rig another clew reefline for the second reef as I am using the intended second reef clew line for my flattening reef.

Regards
Jeff

[geohan]

tsenator: To answer your last question first, yes we have to go to the mast as the tackle is normally in the cunningham cringle and is then disconnected and transfered to the reef tack when it''s time to reef at about 15 knots of wind. The blocks are plastic bullet blocks with 1 1/2 inch sheaves. They are tear drop in shape. The line is 3/8 inch for ease of handling. The bail is between the cheeks and holds the top of the block together. The U shaped connector was home made by bending the rod around a piece of l 1/2 inch pipe. The angle between the legs is about 60 degrees. The eyes were formed around 1/2 inch bolts with much beating and squeezing in the vice. Nothing is critical in the shape. One could use snatch blocks with say a couple of chain lengths through the cringle. If this tack line and the clew tacking line were led aft and the sail slides up to the reef point were free to exit the track, cockpit reefing would be a possibility although we haven''t tried it. I''m sorry I''m not computer savy enough to attempt to send a sketch to this BB although I have managed to do it by e-mail.

[tsenator]

Geohan & Jeff,

thanks...I think I get the picture now. That gives me quite a few ideas. I appreciate your time explaining it to me, I might try something like that.