Volvo MD17C blew a rod?

DolphinLeap · #1 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

While motoring down the ICW with the normal temp cycling from low green to high green, the rpm started varying and the engine shut down with oil coming out of the 3rd cylinder air filter (a bad sign : 0) ).

I am at a marine mechanics repair dock waiting for discussion tomorrow. Does anyone know what I am up against and why it happened. At $85 an hour for the mechanic, can I do the work myself. I have the skills but not the experience. Since I did not make it too far (heading to the Bahamas), I also have my truck (with friends help going back to get it)

I had just finished installing a refurbished lower unit on my 110S saildrive, and the drive seemed to be running fine with normal engine temperatures, so I only mention as it was just done.

Keith

PS I also have the parts book.

MARC2012 · #2 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

Are you sure there isn't too much oil?marc

LakeSuperiorGeezer · #3 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

See my answer to your question at thread "25 hp Volvo auxiliary runs hot-question" Better get the truck and trailer. Purchase the shop manual for the engine, not just the parts manual. If you have never done an engine rebuild, consider that this is a diesel with close tolerances and with an absolute requirement that you have practically clean room conditions because the bearings and journals have less than half the thickness of a piece of paper between them. All the parts must be absolutely clean and all oil passageways cleaned. The heads and block must also be checked for cracks. If you are unsure that you can do the block assembly, consider just pulling the engine and stripping the accessories and letting the automotive machinest do a long block for you, which includes their putting the pan on for you. There would be less chance of contamination. Normally they do a short block where you put the pan and other covers on the engine.

jrd22 · #4 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

Hard to tell from your description what is wrong. Could be that you lost the rings on that cylinder. If you determine that you need to rebuild the engine I would check prices on parts, you may find that it's going to cost over half of the cost of a new engine. I don't think you should tackle a diesel rebuild with just homeowner tools and no experience, but you should be able to remove/re-install it.

LakeSuperiorGeezer · #5 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

Volvo parts are expensive, some parts are already obsolete for your engine, and advances in design have been made; however, you will not know what you need to do until after you have disassembled the engine and the machinest has had a look at it. You might consider the Yanmar 3YM30 as a replacement if it comes to that. With the Yanmar, you will have to be aware that you will likely need different motor mounts, exhaust piping, matching engine to drive, clearance for servicing engine and other considerations. Being modern the Yanmar is smaller in size with slightly higher horsepower. There are other engine swaps to also consider.

DolphinLeap · #6 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

Yes, the oil was just replace with a new filter and the appropriate mount of oil and checked on the dip stick.

eherlihy · #7 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

Probable causes:

Piston rings
Valve guides
Valve springs
Piston

In short, you have not provided enough information to make a clear diagnosis. Also $85/hr is NOT expensive for someone that knows what they are doing. Both of these factors lead me to suspect that you may not have the experience, knowledge and tools to properly repair the engine. Finally, as stated elsewhere, this is an old engine. Parts will be hard to find, and expensive if you can find them.

Here is what I suggest; Offer the mechanic $85 to diagnose the problem for you. You can decide if you want to tackle, or not. If you decide that you don't have enough experience, or the tools (you do have a torque wrench somewhere - right?) offer $170/hr for up to 20 (or some number that you are comfortable with) hours of work, with the condition that you will only pay IF the motor is fixed. (again, up to some limit that you could pay) If this mechanic can't fix it, or if he runs out of time, then you owe nothing. Realize that a new engine will cost you at least $10K.

Assuming that he goes for this, then you have yourself a GREAT deal. Though I suspect that he will not take you up on the offer.

Good luck!

DolphinLeap · #8 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

A new thought, The oil fill is connected to the third cylinder air inlet filter to take vapors from the engine and reborn them (I think), so maybe the oil burped out of the oil fill thru the tube that connects to the third cylinder air filter and out. Comments?

keith

Faster · #9 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

Quote:

the rpm started varying and the engine shut down with oil coming out of the 3rd cylinder air filter

Did the engine come to a sudden stop or did it simply sound like it powered down and stopped? Usually with a mechanical failure like a rod or timing belt there's a noticeable 'BANG' and the engine goes from running rpm to zero in a heartbeat.

eherlihy · #10 (**permalink**) 01-02-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by DolphinLeap

A new thought, The oil fill is connected to the third cylinder air inlet filter to take vapors from the engine and reborn them (I think), so maybe the oil burped out of the oil fill thru the tube that connects to the third cylinder air filter and out. Comments?

keith

Yes, It could be something as simple as the PCV valve... (I should have listed "etc." in my earlier post).

Pay someone who KNOWS what they are doing for their knowledge. Then you can decide if it is worth it for you to repair - or not...

Again - Good luck!