Volvo MD17C blew a rod? - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 22 Old 01-02-2011 Thread Starter
Old Salt
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Angry Volvo MD17C blew a rod?

While motoring down the ICW with the normal temp cycling from low green to high green, the rpm started varying and the engine shut down with oil coming out of the 3rd cylinder air filter (a bad sign : 0) ).

I am at a marine mechanics repair dock waiting for discussion tomorrow. Does anyone know what I am up against and why it happened. At $85 an hour for the mechanic, can I do the work myself. I have the skills but not the experience. Since I did not make it too far (heading to the Bahamas), I also have my truck (with friends help going back to get it)

I had just finished installing a refurbished lower unit on my 110S saildrive, and the drive seemed to be running fine with normal engine temperatures, so I only mention as it was just done.

Keith

PS I also have the parts book.
DolphinLeap is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 22 Old 01-02-2011
Senior Member
 
MARC2012's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 8
 
Are you sure there isn't too much oil?marc
MARC2012 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 22 Old 01-02-2011
Senior Member
 
LakeSuperiorGeezer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 551
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
See my answer to your question at thread "25 hp Volvo auxiliary runs hot-question" Better get the truck and trailer. Purchase the shop manual for the engine, not just the parts manual. If you have never done an engine rebuild, consider that this is a diesel with close tolerances and with an absolute requirement that you have practically clean room conditions because the bearings and journals have less than half the thickness of a piece of paper between them. All the parts must be absolutely clean and all oil passageways cleaned. The heads and block must also be checked for cracks. If you are unsure that you can do the block assembly, consider just pulling the engine and stripping the accessories and letting the automotive machinest do a long block for you, which includes their putting the pan on for you. There would be less chance of contamination. Normally they do a short block where you put the pan and other covers on the engine.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 01-02-2011 at 10:29 AM.
LakeSuperiorGeezer is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 22 Old 01-02-2011
Courtney the Dancer
 
jrd22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: San Juan Islands., WA, USA
Posts: 3,883
Thanks: 4
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Rep Power: 15
 
Hard to tell from your description what is wrong. Could be that you lost the rings on that cylinder. If you determine that you need to rebuild the engine I would check prices on parts, you may find that it's going to cost over half of the cost of a new engine. I don't think you should tackle a diesel rebuild with just homeowner tools and no experience, but you should be able to remove/re-install it.

John
SV Laurie Anne

1988 Brewer 40 Pilothouse

jrd22 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 22 Old 01-02-2011
Senior Member
 
LakeSuperiorGeezer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 551
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Volvo parts are expensive, some parts are already obsolete for your engine, and advances in design have been made; however, you will not know what you need to do until after you have disassembled the engine and the machinest has had a look at it. You might consider the Yanmar 3YM30 as a replacement if it comes to that. With the Yanmar, you will have to be aware that you will likely need different motor mounts, exhaust piping, matching engine to drive, clearance for servicing engine and other considerations. Being modern the Yanmar is smaller in size with slightly higher horsepower. There are other engine swaps to also consider.
LakeSuperiorGeezer is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 22 Old 01-02-2011 Thread Starter
Old Salt
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Yes, the oil was just replace with a new filter and the appropriate mount of oil and checked on the dip stick.
DolphinLeap is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 22 Old 01-02-2011
Learning the HARD way...
 
eherlihy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Boston / Ft Myers Area
Posts: 3,961
Thanks: 152
Thanked 99 Times in 96 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Probable causes:
  • Piston rings
  • Valve guides
  • Valve springs
  • Piston

In short, you have not provided enough information to make a clear diagnosis. Also $85/hr is NOT expensive for someone that knows what they are doing. Both of these factors lead me to suspect that you may not have the experience, knowledge and tools to properly repair the engine. Finally, as stated elsewhere, this is an old engine. Parts will be hard to find, and expensive if you can find them.

Here is what I suggest; Offer the mechanic $85 to diagnose the problem for you. You can decide if you want to tackle, or not. If you decide that you don't have enough experience, or the tools (you do have a torque wrench somewhere - right?) offer $170/hr for up to 20 (or some number that you are comfortable with) hours of work, with the condition that you will only pay IF the motor is fixed. (again, up to some limit that you could pay) If this mechanic can't fix it, or if he runs out of time, then you owe nothing. Realize that a new engine will cost you at least $10K.

Assuming that he goes for this, then you have yourself a GREAT deal. Though I suspect that he will not take you up on the offer.

Good luck!
eherlihy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 22 Old 01-02-2011 Thread Starter
Old Salt
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
A new thought, The oil fill is connected to the third cylinder air inlet filter to take vapors from the engine and reborn them (I think), so maybe the oil burped out of the oil fill thru the tube that connects to the third cylinder air filter and out. Comments?

keith
DolphinLeap is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 22 Old 01-02-2011
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,382
Thanks: 101
Thanked 304 Times in 294 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Quote:
the rpm started varying and the engine shut down with oil coming out of the 3rd cylinder air filter
Did the engine come to a sudden stop or did it simply sound like it powered down and stopped? Usually with a mechanical failure like a rod or timing belt there's a noticeable 'BANG' and the engine goes from running rpm to zero in a heartbeat.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 22 Old 01-02-2011
Learning the HARD way...
 
eherlihy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Boston / Ft Myers Area
Posts: 3,961
Thanks: 152
Thanked 99 Times in 96 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DolphinLeap View Post
A new thought, The oil fill is connected to the third cylinder air inlet filter to take vapors from the engine and reborn them (I think), so maybe the oil burped out of the oil fill thru the tube that connects to the third cylinder air filter and out. Comments?

keith
Yes, It could be something as simple as the PCV valve... (I should have listed "etc." in my earlier post).

Pay someone who KNOWS what they are doing for their knowledge. Then you can decide if it is worth it for you to repair - or not...

Again - Good luck!
eherlihy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
decarbonizing volvo md17c engine divicolouis Diesel 1 11-15-2010 07:57 AM
MD17C-W/Exchanger Serial/Ref.8370 michaelpatton Gear & Maintenance 1 09-01-2008 08:36 AM
MD17c cracked block Rockter Gear & Maintenance 1 09-11-2006 09:41 AM
Fresh Water Cooling Volvo MD17C Nereus32 Gear & Maintenance 0 07-17-2002 12:19 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome