How to set up lazy jacks - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 01-10-2011
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I put Lazy Jacks on my boat two years ago and I love them.

I designed a four part Lazy jacks system for a boom almost 16 feet long. The attachment points on the mast should have been placed so that the lazy jack would hold the end of your baton as the sail is furled. I didn't consider this and attached my lazy jacks just beyond the end of the baton (I have a full batoned main), allowing the end of the baton to fall off the boom. I'll fix that in the spring.

One thing I did right was to use a control line. My Lazy jacks are attched to the mast just below the lower spreader. I've never found a majic formula for determining where the lazy jacks are attached to the mast, but I'd suggest 1.5 to 2 times the boom length above the goose neck. At that point I mounted a Harken #233 Micro Block on the mast and ran the control line back to the goose neck with enought slack to allow the lazy jacks to be hauled down. A major complaint with Lazy Jacks is getting the baton caught on the lazy jacks as the main goes up. I can release the control line and gather the lazy jacks up to the control line cleat near the goose neck before I run the sail up. You'lll want this feature!

This cleat also secures the control line. Many plans show this mounted on the mast. Don't do it! Instead, mount it on the boom 12 to 18 inches from the mast. This keeps the control line away from the mast so it won't slapping at anchor.

It's a great DIY project and worth the effort. Good luck.
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Old 01-10-2011
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My lazy jacks are made of spectra line with eye splices -- no hardware what-so-ever (except where the lines attach to the spars). No hardware to chafe on the sails, and the slippery spectra line also helps reduce chafe. They are re-tractable, too. They were made up for my by Chesapeake Rigging in Annapolis.

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Old 01-10-2011
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No luck posting a picture of my Lazy Jacks, but I must make a correction: I attached my Lazy Jacks below the top spreader, not the lower spreader.
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Old 01-10-2011
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Old 01-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catamount View Post
My lazy jacks are made of spectra line with eye splices -- no hardware what-so-ever (except where the lines attach to the spars). No hardware to chafe on the sails, and the slippery spectra line also helps reduce chafe. They are re-tractable, too. They were made up for my by Chesapeake Rigging in Annapolis.
Catamount, what kind of eyelets are you attaching to on the boom and the mast? Looking to do this and need the details!

Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2011
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ezjax system

Goto Lazy Jack System - EZ-JAX I used their system this summer on a Newport 30 and it worked great.
Capt Al
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Old 01-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf145 View Post
Catamount, what kind of eyelets are you attaching to on the boom and the mast? Looking to do this and need the details!
Something like this (RF1057):



(image from APS Ltd.)

But really any kind of eyestrap would work. There shouldn't been much load on your lazy jacks...
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Thanks, Catamount. But now I see I have a couple of other questions:

1. Just so I understand, you have a cleat on the boom near the gooseneck, and the point where the line is attached to the mast is fixed. You loosen the blue line to release, but what keeps the now loose lines from flapping around? Do you attach the eye from the blue to red junction to the cleat or something?

2. What size spectra did you use?

Tom
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Old 01-11-2011
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Yes, on mine, the attachment to the mast is fixed (I'm not sure I like this, though).

When we are retracting the lazy jacks, I loosen the "blue" line from the cleat that is on the bloom, gather the flapping lines and pull everything down and hook them (all the lines) under the reefing horns at the gooseneck (but could just hook them under the cleats on the boom if those are far enough forward), then I tighten the blue line again so that everything stays hooked, and belay the line to cleat again.

The line is a 12-strand single-braid about a 1/4" in diameter--probably much larger than you need from a strength perspective, but makes for easier handling. The eyes are made with short splices that are covered with heatshrink.
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