Bristol 32 rudder pivots - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-27-2011 Thread Starter
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Arrow Bristol 32 rudder pivots

Any information about repairing lower rudder pivot on my Bristol 32 would be appreciated. how to remove the rudder and how to re-bush the pivots. thanks
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-27-2011
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Bristol29.com should prove helpful.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-27-2011
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If your problem is a worn bushing in the rudder shoe; you may be able to fix it without removing the rudder. I repaired the rudder shoe bushing on my Bristol 24, 4 years ago and the pin is still tight, and the rudder moves smoothly.

If there is play between the rudder pin and the bushing; the gap can be filled by casting with Devcon metal filled epoxy while the rudder is supported so the pin is centered. I first cleaned the bushing with spray brake cleaner. I then sanded the inside of the bushing with coarse sandpaper, by sliding sandpaper around the pin with the grit toward the bushing, then turning the rudder back and forth. The bronze should be sanded until rough and shiney. The mixed epoxy is poured into the bushing until full. The epoxy is allowed to set until firm, but not completely hard. It will stick better to the rough bronze, so when the rudder is turned, the smooth steel pin will break free of the epoxy. The poured in place bushing should then be allowed to harden for a day or two before use.



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post #4 of 9 Old 01-28-2011 Thread Starter
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Thank you for the reply and yours is a good idea. Bones
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-10-2011
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I just had a survey done and the rudder shoe is loose. Does the epoxy fix address the vertical wear. The rudder on the boat I'm looking at is resting on the shoe and should be raised a bit. I also noticed a hole in the bottom of the shoe. Does that need to be plugged when the epoxy is put in the shoe?

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post #6 of 9 Old 05-11-2011
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I mispoke on my previous post. The rudder shoe isn't loose. It is the ruddershaft within the show that is loose. The shoe is worn. I may have it repaired by the yard when other work is done. Can anyone tell me how it is attached? Screws, pins, through bolted?

Has anyone taken one off?

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Jim
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-18-2011
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Lower Rudder Bearing

What compond would you use to bond the lower bearing to the hull. I have a 44' Stamas sailboat and had to remove the rudder for repairs.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
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The yard I discussed thr repair with didn't tell me how that is done. they did tell me the shoe would come off, a bushing machined in their shop would be made and installed. This yard does mostly wooden vessels and I figured they would have the most experience with this. They turned out to be the least expensive even with their high priced railway haulout. I was told the turnaround would be hours, not days. We'll see. The bushing could be just a tight fit. With that rudder post resting on there, I doubt it's going anywhere.

Jim
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-11-2012
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Re: Bristol 32 rudder pivots

Well here is the deal with the lower rudder pivot on a Bristol 32.

At least on a 1975 vintage, hull 165, there is NO bronze shoe. There is a bushing set in the fiberglass that looks like it is a shoe, that supports the bottom of the rudder. The bushing was fine. There is a hole in the bottom of that fiberglass and if you can either look up into the hole or use a mirror, you will see the end of the lower shaft. That shaft is held in place by a transverse bronze bolt with a flat head that is found by grinding away some of the fiberglass. That trasnverse bolts has a nut on the other side also found by grinding away some fiberglass. To remove the pin, support the rudder, remove the trasnsverse bolt and the shaft will slide out down through the hole in the bottom of the fiberglass "shoe". It can't be very long as my "shoe" wasn't that far off the ground. Perhaps a bit more than a foot, but not much.

My pin was flaking away according to the yard. I didn't see it. A new shaft was made with the appropriate hole for the transverse bolt and simply slid into place. Oddly the vertical shaft was tapped 1/4 20 thread on the end to accept a bolt perhaps. I don't know why the threads are there but those threads were made in the new shaft by the machine shop in the event I ever find out. The cost for the pin was less than $100.00.

It was about a $1000.00 job in total give or take. No wobble now and presumably good for another 35 years.

Jim
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