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  #1  
Old 02-02-2011
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Plastic Hatch

Has anyone disassembled a plastic framed hatch. I am having to replace the frame on a Gray/Pompanette hatch. The PO used a silicone sealant which is stuck on the frame like epoxy but never adhered to the boat. Pompanette will sell only the frame for a lot less than the hatch. The hinge pins are staked into the hatch lid and of course one came out easily and the other is not cooperating with my drift pin and hammer. Heat? Any ideas?
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If you're going to use heat, use hot water, rather than a heat gun or other heating technique. When you're re-bedding the new frame, use Butyl Tape rather than another sealant or adhesive, provided the hatch frame is through-bolted. Silicone-based sealants have very few legitimate uses on a boat.
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Old 02-02-2011
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"Silicone-based sealants have very few legitimate uses on a boat."
Offhand I'd agree with you, but Mark Plastics, who are one of the larger players in replacing OEM glazing on a lot of older boats, specifically say to use silicon seal to bed plastic portlight surrounds into the wood/fiberglass hull of a boat. Damfino why, I like more permanent solutions.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
sd-
"Silicone-based sealants have very few legitimate uses on a boat."
Offhand I'd agree with you, but Mark Plastics, who are one of the larger players in replacing OEM glazing on a lot of older boats, specifically say to use silicon seal to bed plastic portlight surrounds into the wood/fiberglass hull of a boat. Damfino why, I like more permanent solutions.
That might be Dow Corning 795, which is an exception to the silicone is useless rule. It is a structural adhesive that is used to hold the large panes of glazing material in skyscrapers, that are not mechanically fastened in any way.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
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—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Last edited by sailingdog; 02-02-2011 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 02-02-2011
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I soaked my window in mineral spirits and the goo came off in the tub. Took a couple days to get it all off. But didn't damage the acrylic.
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Old 02-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
That might be Dow Corning 795, which is an exception to the silicone is useless rule. It is a structural adhesive that is used to hold the large panes of glazing material in skyscrapers, that are not mechanically fastened in any way.
I hope that it's not the stuff they used on the Hancock Tower (aka "the Plywood Palace").

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Eherlily—

If that's the Hancock Tower in Boston, the reason the windows were popping out was the dual-pane glass was too rigid to withstand the thermal cycling during the day. The building was also plagued with other problems, like not being stiff enough to resist wind-loading and swaying dangerously. That problem was solved using two 300 ton weights, which were installed to damp the movement of the building. Additional reinforcement was also added to the building to help resist the torsional forces caused by wind loading that might have otherwise caused the building to fall over.

I don't think Dow Corning 795 was used in the building, since I don't think the product was available when the Hancock was built. It is probably since superseded whatever structural adhesive was previously used.
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—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Old 02-03-2011
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Bomar recommends silpruf silicon for hatches.marc
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Old 02-03-2011
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The last pin came out with a little heat from my wife's hairdryer. I was planning to use Dow 795 on the two plastic hatches since they are screwed only to the fiberglass deck. I also used it to attach the acrylic windows on the side of the Hunter 28.5 without screws. The deck is sanded and then everything is cleaned with acetone prior to install. Seems to be holding so far.
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