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post #11 of 16 Old 02-04-2011
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Don't mean to hijack - but it *is* closely related - my main and jib halyard are wire/rope, and after 30 years are getting tired. 2011 project: replace them! I haven't measured the sheaves at the masthead, but I am guessing 3/8" (Pearson 323, ~200sq ft main, 45' mast above DWL). So Spectra/XLE/sta-set/??

Defender have pre-made halyards, 90', XLE for $90; Spectra cored for $230ish. I also like the look of Cajun (thanks Dog). Any advice?

Last edited by paul323; 02-04-2011 at 08:11 PM.
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-04-2011
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I found that 5/16" T-900 would hold in my original clutches. At 7K# strength there was no need to go larger, and that ID ran comfortably thru the mast head sheaves whereas some 3/8" that I tried was a little too snug.
So do not shy away from 5/16.

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post #13 of 16 Old 02-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul323 View Post
Don't mean to hijack - but it *is* closely related - my main and jib halyard are wire/rope, and after 30 years are getting tired. 2011 project: replace them! I haven't measured the sheaves at the masthead, but I am guessing 3/8" (Pearson 323, ~200sq ft main, 45' mast above DWL). So Spectra/XLE/sta-set/??

Defender have pre-made halyards, 90', XLE for $90; Spectra cored for $230ish. I also like the look of Cajun (thanks Dog). Any advice?
If you're converting from wire/rope to all rope halyards, then you REALLY need to inspect the halyard sheaves and exit slots for damage that could chafe or damage the new halyards. Wire halyards can often damage the exit slots and sheaves, but will not be easily affected by the damage they've caused because wire rope is much more chafe/damage resistant.

I doubt the sheaves can take 3/8" line....but you'd have to measure them yourself. For the halyards, you could probably get away with 5/16" spectra-core line, which is actually much stronger than 3/8" StaSet, 7500 lbs. vs 4400 lbs. 5/16" line may fit, but again, you really need to inspect and measure the masthead sheaves. Also, you want to check the sheave groove profile. A v-shaped one is designed for wire, and will cause the line to wear faster. It might be a good idea to replace the sheaves at this time, given their age and that a u-shaped groove profile would be better for all line halyards.

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post #14 of 16 Old 02-05-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If you're converting from wire/rope to all rope halyards, then you REALLY need to inspect the halyard sheaves and exit slots for damage that could chafe or damage the new halyards. Wire halyards can often damage the exit slots and sheaves, but will not be easily affected by the damage they've caused because wire rope is much more chafe/damage resistant.

I doubt the sheaves can take 3/8" line....but you'd have to measure them yourself. For the halyards, you could probably get away with 5/16" spectra-core line, which is actually much stronger than 3/8" StaSet, 7500 lbs. vs 4400 lbs. 5/16" line may fit, but again, you really need to inspect and measure the masthead sheaves. Also, you want to check the sheave groove profile. A v-shaped one is designed for wire, and will cause the line to wear faster. It might be a good idea to replace the sheaves at this time, given their age and that a u-shaped groove profile would be better for all line halyards.
Here's a little pic of the damage that wire halyards can do.
Attached Thumbnails
mastsheave01.jpg  

My complete refit is taking completely too long!
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-05-2011
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I've replaced all the running rigging on my Sabre 28 and now on the 38. I've used Sta-SetX on both for halyards but really dislike the line because it's very difficult to splice and coils horribly. There are better alternatives such as those listed by other posters. Another alternative is Sampson XLS. I do disagree with the poster that said that Sta-SetX is hard on rhe hands. I think that it's comparable with any other line. Anyway, for halyards, you really aren't handling them that much. Just my opinion.

One thing mot mentioned is doing your own splicing. In short, if you don't know how, now is the time to learn. It is not hard (even Sta-SetX), saves you a bucket of cash (what WM charges is criminal), and you have the confidence that's it's done right. I learned 3 strand splicing as a 14 year old in a boatyard and have done my own splices ever since. Do it, you'll be glad that you did.

Sabre 38 "Victoria"
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post #16 of 16 Old 02-05-2011
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And you can see what kind of damage that would do to an all line halyard... some sharp edges there...

Quote:
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Here's a little pic of the damage that wire halyards can do.

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