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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 04-04-2011
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Has anyone here used CPVC (Chlorinated Polyvinl Chloride) yet in any of their salt or freshwater installations ? Been researching it for my freshwater system and been cosidering useing it for even my bilge pumps. Just wondering has anyone else had any expieriences with it ? Works well with Quick connect fittings and has flexible qualities as well. Rateings seem good.
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Old 04-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RosaViento View Post
Has anyone here used CPVC (Chlorinated Polyvinl Chloride) yet in any of their salt or freshwater installations ? Been researching it for my freshwater system and been cosidering useing it for even my bilge pumps. Just wondering has anyone else had any expieriences with it ? Works well with Quick connect fittings and has flexible qualities as well. Rateings seem good.
That is what I believe that I used for my bilge. I am comfortable with it in this application, as it is resistant to most chemicals that may find their way into the bilge (salts & hydrocarbons). I'm not sure about using it as a fresh water supply though. It is pricy (see my earlier post).

I am using Clear Polyvinyl Chloride tubing as freshwater fill, and freshwater supply lines. This is also spendy... the 1Ĺ" Clear cost me over $5/foot
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Old 04-04-2011
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Glad you're progressing..... but


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Old 04-04-2011
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Tomorrow I'll bring the camera - I promise...
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Old 04-04-2011
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If you drill holes in the stringers to pass the conduit or cable through, the ruleo fthumb is to make the hjoles not more than 1/3 the width of the stringer, and to center it edge to edge. This produces the least weakening of the stringer.

And of course you'd want to epoxy paint all the bare surfaces, including the new holes.

I suspect that reducing the size of the intake hose was a mistake, that will just be seen as an input restriction by the pump. It can't increase velocity since that's already maximized by the fixed speed of the pump motor, all you can do is reduce that speed by choking off the intake. Still...It's done now. And smooth beats corrugated by a huge amount.
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Old 04-05-2011
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As promised;

Before:


After:


Bilge pump, VHF, and mast wiring upgraded, and cleaned up and NOT running through the bilge;


New raw water seacock and backing block - a-la Maine Sail;


Hinged electrical panel (I still need to neaten the wires up behind it);


M25 engine before;


Now, with new alternator, new alternator bracket, new wiring, temperature sender in T-stat housing (removed T fitting), new water pump, rebuilt raw water
pump, new hoses, hot water heater connected to bypass circuit (all the wires still need to be loomed and tie-wrapped);




New Engine Schematic;

NOTE: To anyone following in my footsteps; the Alt Field wire, shown here as red with green heat shrink on the ends must be REMOVED. I found this out the hard way. Apparently it carries high AC amperage, enough to melt the 14g wire. After I cleaned up the mess, and replaced the other wires that it shorted, I can tell you that IT IS NOT NEEDED. The alternator self excites, the tach works perfectly (verified with an optical tach), the output voltage at 2500 RPM is 14.7V.

New Clear Polyvinyl Chloride freshwater fill, and vent lines;




New bilge pump switch and fuel gauge;

Last edited by eherlihy; 06-29-2011 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Correction to schematic notes
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Also replaced all the tank vents with these;


100% 316 Stainless
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Old 04-05-2011
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Looks good. I had that corrugated bilge pump hose on my boat as well. But they laid it in the bilge and then glassed the liner in so it was almost a permanent item though rotten. I removed it by putting lock pliers on it and pulling it out as it unraveled - took a while. I am envious of a deep bilge. My sump over the keel bolts, the deepest part, is about 7" deep.

I replaced the fuel fill and vent lines when I replaced the fuel tank. The vent was corroded so it had to go too. It was high up on the transom and there was only about 2 1/2" between the transom and the aft part of the cockpit well. They installed it before the deck went on. I cut a hole and covered it with a waterproof access plate.
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Last edited by mitiempo; 04-05-2011 at 08:01 PM.
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Looking good. I've often wondered though, about replacing the raw water pump cover with a piece of 1/4" tempered glass instead. Fast way to make sure the impeller is all there, should cost too much to have a glazier cut it, drill it, temper it.
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Old 04-05-2011
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Good thing you did that alternator bracket up grade. By the looks of that silver colored gear case it already broke it once.. Looking good!
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