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post #11 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Originally Posted by PeterSailer View Post
Fail safe...I like it
So do I... and they don't snag on the backstay in light winds.

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post #12 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterSailer View Post
Fail safe...I like it
Pretty nifty design.

Question: the Goiot site says it fits into "Rutgerson grommets" of 25mm or 35mm. How about just regular ole grommets that I have on my sail? What's a Rutgerson grommet anyway>
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post #13 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MastUndSchotbruch View Post
Pretty nifty design.

Question: the Goiot site says it fits into "Rutgerson grommets" of 25mm or 35mm. How about just regular ole grommets that I have on my sail? What's a Rutgerson grommet anyway>
Rutgerson grommets are one of the most common brand of grommets used by sailmakers for reinforcing the reefing clew/tack cringles. If your sail doesn't have Rutgerson grommets, it is a relatively simple matter for a sailmaker to replace them. The loft I had install my third reef used them for the third reef and retrofit them for the other reefing points so that the blocks could be used on my sail.

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post #14 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Rutgerson grommets are one of the most common brand of grommets used by sailmakers for reinforcing the reefing clew/tack cringles. If your sail doesn't have Rutgerson grommets, it is a relatively simple matter for a sailmaker to replace them. The loft I had install my third reef used them for the third reef and retrofit them for the other reefing points so that the blocks could be used on my sail.
Hm, in my case, I installed the grommets for the third reef myself. I don't think I paid attention to the brand of the grommets. Given that they size them in millimeters (25mm or 35mm), I wonder if they are metric.
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post #15 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Originally Posted by MastUndSchotbruch View Post
Hm, in my case, I installed the grommets for the third reef myself. I don't think I paid attention to the brand of the grommets. Given that they size them in millimeters (25mm or 35mm), I wonder if they are metric.
They look like this:


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post #16 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
They look like this:

thanks, that is very helpful. So they are the type that is pressed in by machine. I installed mine the old-fashioned way, straight out of the Sailmaker's Apprentice (sew in a cringle, then press in the interior fitting with a die set).

I guess I could measure my reef 1 and 2 (which are installed by machine) and see if by accident they are 35mm.

If I may ask, how much (roughly) is the Godiot gizmo?
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post #17 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MastUndSchotbruch View Post
thanks, that is very helpful. So they are the type that is pressed in by machine. I installed mine the old-fashioned way, straight out of the Sailmaker's Apprentice (sew in a cringle, then press in the interior fitting with a die set).

I guess I could measure my reef 1 and 2 (which are installed by machine) and see if by accident they are 35mm.

If I may ask, how much (roughly) is the Godiot gizmo?
Hmm... I couldn't tell you, I don't remember how much I paid for them. I bought them off of a friend down at the marina, who bought them in France to complicate the issues, and they were priced in Euros, and I bought them in USD.

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post #18 of 27 Old 02-11-2011
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Quote:
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Hmm... I couldn't tell you, I don't remember how much I paid for them. I bought them off of a friend down at the marina, who bought them in France to complicate the issues, and they were priced in Euros, and I bought them in USD.
Thanks anyway. It does seem like a good idea and may be worthwhile to explore.
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post #19 of 27 Old 02-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeB View Post
The ... photo illustrates the problem with single line reefing. The reefing line suffers friction going through the new cringle, making for more tension on the tack than the clew. Unfortunately, most of the force is on the clew. I rigged a Harken Carbo Block to reduce that friction, but unfortunately, now have a point of chaffe in my system. The solution for that is to cut new exits on the bottom side of my boom, but the extra slots will weaken the boom just where you want it to be strong. One solution begets a new problem…

.....
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Originally Posted by svHyLyte View Post
In the ... photo, the forward angle forced on the reefing line by the bull's eye block on the mast immediately below the boom pulls the turning block connected to the cringle strap at the luff forward, causing the line to run over the forward edge of the exit slot on the top of the boom. This arrangement introduces a lot of unnecessary friction to the system and will cause the line to fail at the slot in the boom due to chafe in any extended blow. Eliminating the bull's eye block below the boom will eliminate these problems and create a fairer lead to what I assume is a turning block at the mast base. Single line reefing sustems are great in theory, in practice, not so much.
The Problem with svHyLyte's suggestion is that you need a forward pull on the tack line, otherwise all the pressure of the sail will come on the first luff slide above the reef.

Here's one possible solution -- add a small block on a strop to the top of the boom to help re-direct the reef line so as to avoid chafing against the edges of the sheave box:


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post #20 of 27 Old 02-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catamount View Post
The Problem with svHyLyte's suggestion is that you need a forward pull on the tack line, otherwise all the pressure of the sail will come on the first luff slide above the reef.

Here's one possible solution -- add a small block on a strop to the top of the boom to help re-direct the reef line so as to avoid chafing against the edges of the sheave box:

This isn't a bad suggestion.

However, the simplest solution is to remove the bull'seye block from the mast.

Alternately, one could simply use a double sheave exit block on the boom such as the Harken H089:


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