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  #21  
Old 04-07-2012
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Re: Chainplates

Stainless is never plated. It is polished and then electropolished to remove the free iron particles that will cause corrosion.
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  #22  
Old 04-08-2012
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Re: Chainplates

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Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
Stainless is never plated. It is polished and then electropolished to remove the free iron particles that will cause corrosion.
Thanks for the info/correction. I am sure whatever the additional process is you could tell from my post that I had chosen only to polish the chainplates I made. I made this decision based on chainplates I removed and what material I decided to make the new ones out of. Only one of my orginal chainplates showed any signs of crevis corrosion and it was minimal at that. All others had some rust staining but that was about it. Those were 40+ yrs old. My new ones are 3/16" thicker, 1/4" wider and polished over the orginals. Original made great backing plates! I felt that there was no addition processes necessary. Time will tell!
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Last edited by Cruiser2B; 04-08-2012 at 01:33 AM.
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2012
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Re: Chainplates

I'm sure they will be trouble free for decades.

3/16" thicker - how thick were the original chainplates?
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2012
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Re: Chainplates

electropolishing is not necessary and does nothing to protect the stainless. mirrior mechanical polishing is the best. any type of polishing, be it mechanical or electropolishing will expose the free iron on the surface and it will rust if exposed to moisture. in addition to the electropolishing process most all parts are passivated and allowed to air dry before returned to the customer. it is the Passivation of the stainless that removes the free iron from the surface and should be done to all stainless parts. Passavation can be done to your parts by soaking in cirtus or nitric acid. soaking in Spotless Stainless will passivate the parts just as well.
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Old 04-08-2012
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Re: Chainplates

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Originally Posted by overbored View Post
electropolishing is not necessary and does nothing to protect the stainless. mirrior mechanical polishing is the best. any type of polishing, be it mechanical or electropolishing will expose the free iron on the surface and it will rust if exposed to moisture. in addition to the electropolishing process most all parts are passivated and allowed to air dry before returned to the customer. it is the Passivation of the stainless that removes the free iron from the surface and should be done to all stainless parts. Passavation can be done to your parts by soaking in cirtus or nitric acid. soaking in Spotless Stainless will passivate the parts just as well.
I think that the members here are referring to passivation when they say electropolishing. From what my electropolisher told me about the process, passivation is an (the) integral part of the process. The combination of electricity and a nitric acid bath is what gets the iron out to a decent depth.

Also, I beg to differ about it doing nothing - the parts I had done years ago still look the same as the day they were installed. That doesn't happen when they are merely wheel polished and buffed. In that case they start out looking the same but it only lasts a couple of years before they start to lose their gloss and the old brown stains start to make an appearance in corners and on edges and particularly on welds.
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Last edited by SloopJonB; 04-08-2012 at 01:05 PM.
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